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Guys, I really appreciate the insite. I buy most of my parts from a local supplier in the Houston, Tx. area. My mechanic friend that’s working on the motor said the adjusters should be replaced and the ball swivel type were the only ones in stock. I wanted to get the engine sealed up asap so I purchased the swivel type and it’s just not working out as hoped. I guess I’ll just get the stock adjusters and forget the “trick” stuff. Thanks for all the help
I was told these ball swivel adjusters were a replacement for the stock adjusters that were more friendly to the valve train geometery. Supposedly, the stock pushrods are usable.
NOS heads are stock 1600 dual port type 1 and a new set of valves,springs,retainers and keepers.
When I bought the car, it had been parked in a garage for way more hours than it had been driven. The battery would crank the car, but was old. I purchased a new battery and cables and the neg. cable bolted to a reinforced part of the floorpan. That ground is good. However I took for granted that the motor to floorpan ground was also good. Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll make sure everything is grounded properly. I’m still not sure about the alternators regulator, but you’re correct about an alternator not solving a bad ground problem. Thanks again
Thanks for the input. The generator on my MIGI is not putting out the full 14.2 volts, or I’d probably leave well enough alone. With the engine idiling, the turn signals will come on but will not flash until reving the engine. Same for the horn, it won’t honk at idle, but is nice and loud at higher RPMs. I’d rebuild the generator, but an alternator seems like a more modern route to take. The manual says that the alternator’s external regulator is under the back seat on the drivers side. My generator regulator is mounted on the fan shroud. (I don’t know if that’s the stock location or not.)
Since I first posted this question, I’ve been told that Volkswagen changed to an alternator with an integral (internal) regulator in late 1974. If this is true, do the numbers on the alternator tell if it does or dosen’t have an internal regulator? Oh! the price we pay when we choose to take the cheap route.
Here’s a couple of wire wheel suppliers
http://www.daytonwirewheel.com
http://www.zenithwirewheels.net
Both offer tru knock-off wheels. A splined hub that bolts to your bolt pattern and the wheel slips over the spline and a knock 0ff holds them on. Call your banker first, cause they ain’t cheap. They are however, drop-dead gorgeous.
Check Speedway Motors in Nebraska. They still carry the old flat style wheels that were copies of the Bell flat track type wheels. They’re not nearly as attractive as the banjo wheel, but they are not as expensive either. Also check out some of their other items. I bought a momometer(round themometer) for the top of my Migi grille shell.
Paul,
I thought I was in the TD Registry when I filled out the membership application on this site. However, I don’t see my name listed. When I click on the if not “click here”, I just get the list. How do I register?
Unlike the Honda 4 cylinder bike with 4 carbs, the VW with duals are sync’d one at a time. Therefore, I will only need 1 tool? I don’t mind the extra expense for the right tool, I just hate to buy the wrong one first. I knew with all the dual carbs out there someone had the right answer. I really appreciate it.
Come on Guys! I’m dealing with a large group of VW specialist here and no one wants to volunteer the answer. I used a carb stick on my 4 cyl Honda Magna and it was fairly simple. Connect a vaccuum tube to each carb and reach the highest level of mercury in each of the 4 tubes. I’m sure dual carb VW’s sre similar, I just wanr some input on which one seems to work the best. Price isn’t that much difference but the styles appear very different and I’d like the best “Bang” for the buck.
Your opinion is very appreciated.
Thanks,
I knew I could count on you guys. There’s a wealth of knowledge on this forum and I appreciate you sharing it.
I haven’t tried anything yet for fear of doing damage. I saw the two sloted holes in it but my 2 jaw puller won’t fit, so i thought I needed something special (i.e. the oil pump puller)
Thanks for the help. I went back through the past posts but didn’t find anything. I guess it so simple, I’m the only one that tried to make it difficult.
Is there a secret to installing gas rams to hold up the engine cover? The piano lid brackets are sooooo ugly.
I’m waiting on a front disc conversion to arrive in order to drive the car. When I bought it, I was only able to drive it on my trailer because the front drum brakes were out. While anxiously waiting I decided to due a tune up because the car sat in a garage for several months. In order to get to #3 spark plug I pulled the carb off that side and it said Webber on the side and it’s only a single bbl carb. The previous owner was not the builder and new less about VW’s than I do, if that’s possible.
I have also ordered a ceramic coated performance extractor that looks like a glasspak muffler and I guess the next step is the distributor. Do you prefer the pertronix conversion over a billet electronic distributor?
The oil pump cover is finned aluminum that also has the filter on it and it has “Claude’s Buggies” cast into the housing. Would this be a full flow system?
Also how do I access your photo gallery? Under Photo Gallery in the index I could only find 1 photo of your car.
Thanks. I was pretty sure it was, but either didn’t search the right website or gave up too quickly so I decided to ask the “PROS”.
Are the dual port heads that much of a performance item when equipted with two 1bbl Webbers (as mine is)? Would the progressive Webber 2bbl be a better choice?
Thanks for you reply. I’m spoiled by the quick stopping ability of disc brakes. (A necessity not an option in Houston traffic.)
Thanks Larry. I feel real stupid. You’re exactly right, the place the brackets bolt are clearly visable. My brother built a 48 Jaguar several years ago and couldn’t find any bumpers. He ended up using 32 Ford repops. Look at Speedway Motors website. They have lots of mirrors/lights and accessories that could work on a Migi. The 32 bumpers would have to be cut down.
Thanks again.
