[billnparts]

Have you looked into purchasing a matched gauge and sender? There’s a bunch of various offerings on the market.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Thanks, Ed.

Reservations made.

Just a reminder everyone, the discounted rooms are under “Speedsters”.

See y’all there.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Of course, I will be there. I will, once again, tow the car out and leave it in the pavilion with the Pennsylvania Hillclimb Association. Looking forward to seeing everyone.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

My first guess would be MG Magic in Florida.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

I was unable to find the lower bearing I needed. The old one had disintegrated.

I thought I could adapt something to work in there but there was nothing that matched the ID and OD requirements. I went through all the bearing catalogs I had and even went to a bearing wholesaler who tried and came up empty.

       

I finally resorted to taking pieces from a heavy plastic tank I had out back and fashioned a bushing that would fit and epoxied it into place.

The end result was pretty good. Sorry, there were two photos in this sequence that, no matter what I tried, refused to import into this topic.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

That’s pretty bad for a VW based TD. My 300hp 302 V8 delivers me 10 MPG.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Well if a ready made top is not available, the next best option would be to have one made. A good tri, shop would be able to make one from scratch. check out boat upholsterers.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

As I recall it’s on the left side of the block just above the oil pan on a flat boss apx. halfway along the block. When mine pulled out I simply epoxied it back in.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Check out the appropriate manual up in the “Library”

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

I just flat towed my TDr 3-1/2 hours each way last weekend. Make sure it’s in neutral, parking brake is off and the column is unlocked.

Here is the post that the late great Royal Hendrix posted some years ago. He addresses about everything.

http://Royal replied to the topic Carlisle May 2019 in the forum Clubs and Show 6 years ago Flat Towing: It’s really no more difficult than towing around your block, except you need to be aware of the fact that you can not back up. This may cause some problems when getting fuel. Truck stops work well. You will be tempted to go the same speed as traffic. Do you want the top up or down? Your choice. Either way the top or the tonneau will tend to fill with air and billow up. If the top up, then you might want to run some tape up the seam where the side curtain meets the windscreen else one (and then more) of the snaps comes loose and they “unzip” and you lose a side curtain. If you tow top down with the tonneau installed, I recommend removing the toad’s steering wheel else you may wear a hole in your tonneau. I prefer bright magnetic stop and turn signals and attach them to the toad’s bumper over-riders and then put a wrap of gorilla tape around them for security against vibrating off. I usually pump up the toad’s tires to 28-30 psi and carry a small air compressor. Be careful and choose a hitch receiver that allows the tow bar to be as close to level as possible favoring a slight up (from toad to tow vehicle) angle so that on emergency stops the front of the toad doesn’t try to rise. Remember that you will have NO tongue weight, so if your hitch is loose in the receiver, it will rattle and annoy you the whole trip. Wooden shims and/or tape can help to make the toad quieter. ….and I won’t repeat the good fatherly advice about toads being in neutral, emergency brake off, steering wheel unlocked, stopping distances, mirrors, practice runs around the block, gawkers, and about being able to see the toad (depending on the tow vehicle). You might be more comfortable attaching a bicycle flag to the rear bumper of the toad (if so, put it dead center on the rear bumper). Flat towing is the way to go. I have flat towed many thousands of miles between Connecticut to Florida and countless shorter trips. Never a problem except the (old) Garden State Parkway in NJ where it was prohibited (1960’s).

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVCoBfPj0ig

How’s this?

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

A couple shots from others of last weekend.

 

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

I’ve searched through the black hole that is my garage and the only tachometer I found was a Stewart Warner unit. Odd,  because I removed VDO from the car and installed Stewart Warner. Sorry, I can’t help you.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

I have a set of VDO Vintage gauges that I removed several years ago. They were the “Vintage” series. What are you in need of?

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Try as I might, I am not able to convert my video to a format that I can export.

Anyway, this weekend I’m heading to Summit Point. The 2+ mile Shenandoah circuit is one I have yet to run. Wish me luck.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

As did Mark, I also went with agreed value with Hagerty. It’s hard to apply a hard and fast value on these as they are all different.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Pretty much. The fuse panel should have both “Hot all the time” as well as “Hot with key on only”. If you have wiring with melted insulation, replace the wires. Good luck.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Nice acquisition. With the V6 that thing will be a load of fun. Enjoy.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Very pretty. Looks in great shape. Enjoy. Love the wires.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

If you mount the lamps to the badge bar, drill a hole in the bar and route the wires through the bar and mounting bracket to the underside of the fender.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Have you tried  a manual reset of the trip meter?  That might realign all the numbers.(Maybe)

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

It’s there. I can pull it up, but, you’re right, a general search does not work. Send your email address to ‘billnparts@yahoo.com” and I’ll try to send it direct.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

The bels should be mounted into the frame or some structural metal. The outboard belt is easy enough, you can bolt it into the frame rail. The inboard is not so easy. There is nothing there but fiberglass. When I had my safety cage constructed the chassis shop installed a metal brace off the frame to mount the belt. In lieu of that, use the largest metal plate you can fit under there as a reinforcement to the fiberglass.

In retrofitting a defroster system, you’d have to remove the windshied to cut holes in the cowl. Unless you plan to drive this in the winter, don’t bother. I did drive mine through several winters and found that a small 12volt heater from Harbor Freight that I could place on the cowl worked just fine.

Windshield washers, you’re on your own. Never had them. The original cars never had them. Personally, I don’t think you need them.

Good luck with your purchase.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

My VDO Speedo was doing the same thing. I decided to take it apart. I found there was a jackshaft between gear sets that had become misaligned. It snapped back into place easily enough. Problem fixed. Replacement bezels are available on the VDO website.

Search for forum topic “ Odometer” for photos and detailed instructions.

Hope this helps.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[billnparts]

Congratulations.

Photo insertion instructions by the great Ed Ericson :

First you go to your own thing. Upper right corner it should say something like “Howdy, Happy Jack.” Click on that and you get a drop-down menu. At the bottom it says “media.” Hover over that with your curser and you should see another drop-down menu with “albums,” “photos” “videos.” Click on “photos.”

That should bring you to a new page. If you have previously uploaded pictures, you will see some of them. Under “All Photos” near the top left of the page you will see “options” and “upload.”

Click on “upload.”

That opens another drop down box. You can actually drag and drop pictures into this from a folder on your computer screen, or you can navigate to the folder on your computer with the pics. Double click on them and the upload begins. You should see them appear in your photo album.

To get one into a post you have to click on it.

It should open up big. Then RIGHT-click on it, and you should see a box open up on it with options like “copy,” “save image as,” etc. Click on “copy image address.”

Now close the pic and find your way back to the post you want to put this photo in. (I often use two browser windows for this, keeping the “new post” box open in a separate tab or window).

(Hang on, we’re getting close now)</span></span></span>

Above the window where you want to make the picture go, there’s a line of little symbols. The second from the left is like a jagged little mountain with a little moon over it. That’s your “insert pic” button. Click it.

That opens a new box with a prompt that says “Source.” PASTE (control or command V) the “image address” you copied about six steps ago. Then press OK.

The photo should appear now as if by high-tech magic. So simple even a computer science Ph.D. could do it, sometimes, maybe, if he’d had enough Red B

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[Author]

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