Well today we have an unexpected milestone.

Yeah, that is paint on my newly-stretched left front fender. But it’s a little misleading…

It’s kind of a “sacrificial” color coat so I can see how mucked-up my smackem putty job is. They say you never see the flaws until you put a shine to it anyway, so…Duplicolor rattle-can, baby!

But…NOT…[Read more]

Yeah should have thought of vacuum leaks. And Roy is also right on. I like both those diagnoses better than my tins theory.

You might even have a bit of extra material on the cover that you could grind off. Sometimes they’re not of consistent thickness. A quarter inch is plenty strong, and some parts of some kits are nearly an inch thick.

Speaking personally I’d move the engine forward.  😆

Seriously though: pushing the engine cover back 3/8 of an inch should not be a horrific thing. Why not shim the hinges for a test fit and see how it looks before deciding how to fill the gap? Remember, the engine cover is taking the place of a fuel tank, which on a TD is strapped to the…[Read more]

Great progress.

Since you’re already past the car rebuild I’m guessing you’ve read the various “how-to-adjust-your-PICT” instructions and are following them pretty much. But in case not, check out http://www.vw-resource.com/30PICT2.html#carb

(and note how different the 30/31 is from the later 34 PICT 3).

–Your idle shut-off valve is good?…[Read more]

Great progress.

Since you’re already past the car rebuild I’m guessing you’ve read the various “how-to-adjust-your-PICT” instructions and are following them pretty much. But in case not, check out http://www.vw-resource.com/30PICT2.html#carb

(and note how different the 30/31 is from the later 34 PICT 3).

–Your idle shut-off valve is good?…[Read more]

If it has 1981 and MiGi it sounds like you’re looking at the kit serial number. I think that’s irrelevant to your registration unless the car’s never been registered before by a state motor vehicle department.

I’d follow the negative battery terminal to the spot on the chassis where it’s bolted. Remove the bolt, clean the metal where it’s bolted through, and put it back. Clean the battery terminals as well—both of them. Then see if she starts.

Bad trouble but now you have a new engine. On the road again!

Welcome.

Hey guys, when I put the Pertronix in Bridget a few years back I had the same problem—until I turned the distributer about 30 degrees. Clockwise, as I recall. Someone on the board then said they had the same experience. TDC in the #1 cylinder stays the same, but TDC on the #1 plug wire, at the distributor cap, moves quite a bit.

We never could f…[Read more]

Glad you got it sorted, Allen. Been there.

dang. Back to the “how do I post a photo” rag. Sorry Allen.

I understand what it means to have the disty in backwards, out 180 degrees. So if that’s what you’re talking about, easy fix. Try it one way. She no a-start, pull it out, turn it 180, and try it again….

Good luck!

Offset to the distributor shaft?

I’m not sure what that is, Allen. Seems we have another thread where pics would help.

That looks really trick. Nice job!

If I had it to do again I’d go with a 2-inch narrowed beam.

In your case it sounds like maybe the body or fenders aren’t centered just right, which is probably not all that unusual. You might be able to find some adjustment but it’s a whole other project.

Yes, the new beam can be swapped in without removing the fenders—at least it could on my c…[Read more]

Ditto. SOunds like something of a benchmark for TDr values too.

Impressive. 🙂