I would use a rotary sander with about a 110 grit, following up with hand block sanding with 220 and finer. Making sure that the spin of the sander is always in a downward motion. Make sure that the back half of the sander is nowhere near the hood. Be sure to wear a respirator or a good dust mask. Remove the hood and place on something firm so…[Read more]

Glass does not like to bend sharp corners. Get a good structure with an almost sharp edge, then use some fiberglass body putty, the kind with very finely chopped glass. Or else make up your own using polyester mixed with microbeads or wood flour. For a strong outside corner, the fine chopped glass putty works best. You can also cut your own…[Read more]

Welcome to the MG TD scraped knuckle group. My wife doesn’t let me go our to dinner with her unless I triple scrub my hands. Byproduct of building an MGTD…..

There’s a jam nut on the one end that has right hand thread. Can’t put one on the end that’s left hand thread.

This was the engine when I bought it. The entire front of the car was gone except for the hood and the engine. I took a chance because the engine turned just by turning the fan by hand. It worked out because the engine does run and when I took the pan and timing cover off it was spotless inside. Must have been a recent rebuild.

A while ago I pulled the oil pan to swap it with one that had a rear sump. When I did so, a woodruff key fell out. I guessed that it was from the harmonic balancer, so I pulled the balancer which came apart.  The previous owner must have seperated the balancer from the hub, probably in the act of prying it off. Since there was no key the whole…[Read more]

Open up the welting a bit and remove the cord/plastic tube back to the point where you want to fold. It will be easier to fold it back and hide the excess.

I’ve always liked the Shay roadster, sold through Ford which has a lot of parts in common with our Ford based MG’s, (but it’s not an MG)http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1929-Shay-Super-Deluxe-Model-Ford-Roadster-1980-/251243182966?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a7f42bb76

Looking great, especially the new interior. Are you going to color sand the car, or does it just need a good buff job? I’ve color sanded several cars, so don’t hesitate to ask for notes from experience.

I have welded small stuff before, but this is first time for a whole car frame. As far as all the other stuff that gets bolted to the frame, I’ve found the conversations that go on in this forum to be truly useful. I don’t think Alfred will be roadable by Carlisle, but I will be there anyway.

Frame is 99% complete, painted and ready to start mounting the suspension. Final weight, including Mustang crossmember is 200 pounds. Much less than the Chevette frame which was way over 300 without the Chevette crossmember. The frame has mounting plates welded to it that allows a rollbar to be bolted in place (or removed at any time)

I had the same problem with the back of my hood. I think it was taken out of the mold too soon and lost a lot of it’s curve. I made an arch shaped piece and glassed it on the inside to force the curve. Now the curve is fine but it’s still 1/2 inch too narrow in the front. Good thing it’s fiberglass, as all of this is fixable.

The welds are still pretty ugly, but it will definitely hold the alternator in place with no flexing or vibration. Tomorrow I’ll figure out how to make a belt tensioner form a turnbuckle. This site has a simple one that I’ll copy.http://www.thewedgeshopstore.com/products/Turnbuckle-Alternator-Adjuster-TR8.html
PMOSSBERG2013-03-08 23:44:08

Tack welding of frame done enough to lift the body back off. Came off in one piece….Today I made a bracket for my handy little alternator.

Make sure to put finish on both sides of the board. The inside does not have to be pretty but it does need to be moisture proof, so one side won’t expand/contract more than the other.

1. The teak was left over from an old headboard I cut down. Price=free2. It won’t ever rot3. 1X2 Aluminum is pretty thin and will eventually strip the threads

Made outriggers today to hold up the running boards. I previously fiberglassed a teak 1X2 on the bottom of the running boards to give them strength. 

I want it strong enough to stand on and also to use as jack points in case of a flat. The welding is just tacked on for now. Only have three three more items to fabricate for the frame: Body…[Read more]

gas cap and hose was from herehttp://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=263103&Category_Code=fuelfillsfliptopThe tube was from the Speedway Race cataloghttp://www.speedwaymotors.com/Straight-Aluminum-Hose-Connectors,8936.htmlAlternator from…[Read more]

One of my problems was to get the alternator inside of the bonnet side panels, since the stock mounts stuck the alternator outside about 8 inches. Also there was no room on either side to put in a full size alternator. I found this 40 amp hot rod alternator online. Perfect.Also bought a flip top fuel cap along with the hose and a neck tube that…[Read more]