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Sounds like what I did, throwing out a Chevette frame and building a frame for a Ford driveline. See build thread called Building Alfred.
The valve cover is connected to the rest of the crankcase via the oil drainback scheme. Blow-by from a leaking piston ring would cause increased pressure in the crankcase and this is one really common way for valve cover gaskets to get blown.
We bought a mountain home in Pine, CO. About 40 minutes SW of Denver. It’s all about the grandchildren that live in Denver.
No shroud on mine. Too hard to line up fan with radiator. Gauge reads 200 degrees but a thermometer at upper hose is usually 185. No overheating so far.
Just received my sticker yesterday. Also received a firm date for the moving van that will take us from Maryland to Colorado. Both to happen on May 16th. Trying to figure out how I can spend May 16th supervising the move and then going to Carlisle after house is empty. My wife asked where we can sleep on 16th. Told her I do have a hotel reservation in Pennsylvania….
I used one of the new one-wire alternators. Works great but had one problem. It drained the battery after a while. I had to install a relay to disconnect it when key is off. No problems after that. Was told that the alt I used is a racing alternator and those guys don’t worry about drain current.
Mine came from here…
PMOSSBERG2014-03-20 09:53:34
The car tracks very well. The major difference I have found between this car and others I have had is that it “likes” to enter a curve much more than others and I have to be more aware when exiting the curve. But that’s a good thing. Just have to get used to it to take advantage of this feature. I have yet to drive it hard in a very curvy road as there are almost none of them in southern Maryland. No binding at all in lower arms that I see or feel.
The main reason I used the A arm was to make room for the double exhaust. A panhard bar would have conflicted with any exhaust traveling through that very confined space.
I did have one problem with wishy-washy turns that felt just like the rear tires were low. Turned out the rear tires were low. A little more air and it’s fine. Running 28 in the back now.Mel: Looking real good.
–I used a stock Cobra II 8″ rear, with leaf spring brackets cut off and replaced with scratch built brackets for a fox-body trailing arm.
Front crossmember was out of a 76 Mustang II. I did not use drop spindles, instead moved the whole crossmember up 1 1/4 inches. Same effect, no cost.
Frame clearance is designed for 5″ clearance. Have not bottomed out.
Keep up the great work…..The flexible bumper type of epoxy should be able to work for your filler tube. I would cut out the extra, split the removed portion and glue it all back together. You’re a handy guy, after all of the other stuff, this is easy.
A professional transmission mechanic friend of mine showed me how to use Vaseline jelly to hold parts in place during assembly. It all melts as soon as engine is started.
From what I learned during my donor car search, the Fiero and the Chevette shared from suspension parts, but the Fiero was wider. I sincerely doubt that the Chevette rear can stand up to a Chevy 350.
This site will give you the specs for nearly every car.
http://www.automobile-catalog.com/
PMOSSBERG2014-02-25 16:45:01
Before I built, I looked into several different approaches of engine, transmission and rear end. the hardest part was to find a rear narrow enough (without putting out a pile of money to narrow one).
Possible approaches were MGB, Pinto/Mustang II, Chevy S10 V6, a 3.0 boat engine, and the 6cyl that used to be in Post Office Jeeps. I also looked into the Buick aluminum V8, but parts are hard to find. Finally decided on going with the Mustang Cobra II rear and the Ford Cologne 2.8 V6. If I want to upgrade I can replace it with the later 4.0 from an Explorer. The Chevy route was real tempting because they have a brand new crate long block 3.4 liter 60 degree V6 that is meant to replace the older S10 2.8.You are right about the frame. It looked like the welder was paid by the pound so he used as much metal as possible.
I went through something very similar with a Chevette based kit that I turned into a Mustang II V-6 based car. Suggest you read my entire build thread. It’s under My Projects, Building Alfred.
Good luck.Bill: Is that picture of your feet sticking out from under your car at VA beach part of the doc set?
First thing you should do is take some pictures and post them here. We will all look at them and you will get a lot of experience based comments. You can attach pictures using the little tree symbol when you post your message.
Looking forward to meeting you.
Gabor also know as Gabe….If I had to mount a pickup bed I think that the short and narrow Ford Model T pickup bed style would work with the lines of an MG TD.
A little math: The ad says that the interior took 500 hours of custom work. 500 hours times $75 (a reasonable price for interior work) is $37,500. Even at only $50 per it’s $25,000 just for the interior. The interior looks really good, but not $25,000 to $37,500 good.
