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All I can say is WOW
. That is beyond beautiful!! That should be a top show car. If you need parts, check out MG Magic, a lot of the parts are the same on the TD’s from 52 to 55.You May want to blow some air through the idle jet seats in the carb, they can get gummed up when carb cleaner is used. Did you use the gallon bucket of carb stuff you let the parts soak in? That stuff gets out all the junk, then you blow the ports out with an air hose after soaking.
Welcome Aboard!
Do lots of research, it will pay off in the end. These cars are lots of fun!! Just take your time in restoring your project. It is the “Most Bang for the Buck”.
It appears that someone tried to use the cooling fan to boost the air pressure ahead of the carb, a form of supercharger. Get rid of the box, it is robbing the cooling air. I had a Berrie mini taxi with a Judson Supercharge on a 2400cc VW. it dyno tested out at about 300HP in the 80’s. car only weighed 750 lbs. Did great at the 1/8 mile Drag strip, had weely bars and needed them. Those were the days. “GET RID OF THE BOX”!!, IT WILL COOK YOUR MOTOR.
You need to make sure that the cooling vanes are in place even if you don’t have a thermostat. I have the stat will reduce engine wear by warming the engine aluminum parts expand to operating temp faster. The separating of the hot and cold air is a necessity, the Germans separated them for a reason. My oil temp never gets over 190 degrees. These kits were made for simple “Boy Toys” not for long distance. Also make sure that there is sufficient air intake for cool air. In short, if you over seal the upper, not enough fresh air will be there. Sounds like you are on the right road. I made my fire wall and other sheet metal out of Aluminum. It is a cheap way out and looks pretty good. I also suggest painting it black to keep it from reflecting heat.
Good Luck.
The site is Beautiful. How do I paypal the money. Who’s Email address? Send the info to me as a PM.
ThanksGrandpa JoLá breithe sonas duit!That is Gaelige for Happy Birthday.
I can give you some good Gaelic phrases for the future EX if oyu want.Grandpa JoPMossberg is right. VW’s don’t leak oil unless there is a problem. Another place is the push rod tubes. The spring loaded are notorious for leaking, use original VW parts. Another place to check is around the oil pump. If somebody replaced it and pulled it using a screwdriver to pry it out, they probably damaged the sealing surface on the block. If so the you have to pull the pump and gently sand any ridge out and replace the gaskets and reinstall. Good luck.
I have the Petronics on my MG Replica and have never had a problem. They work great, no points to mess with. The only way to fly.
The tires they installed had an overall height of 27.3 inches, VW factory tires are approxamatley 24.4. They looked good, but when a tight turn was made ir ate the body. No More Pep Boys For Me
!!Sounds good Roy. I drove it home to Indiana from Orlando Florida, so your place is real close. It all depends when it happens. Keep us posted.
When is the Carlisle Show? I have a set of 4 Chrome and Gold Custom wheels I had left from a Drag car I had back in the 70’s, they made fun of the VW till they raced it on the 1/8 mile strip. Then they would not let me come back. It is a matter of what you like on a replicar, they are not MG’s or Porsche. I have a friend with a Design Classics 57 T-Bird / VW powered.
I got this one and it was nice. Thanks Jim. He was being consertive on the description, it is nice. Thanks Jim
The fiberglass resin will eat up and kind of absorb the plastics, I even tried Visqueen, it is very heavy plastic used in construction. The resin is potent stuff. I think I will go with the fiberglass paneds and a square tube aluminum frame. That way I can put some sound proofing in the void. I also have a bunch of vinyl I bought at an auction, I got a deal 50 rolls for $10. Abouty 250 feet by 4 feet on each roll. I am thinking of putting that on the outside, like the 70’s cars had. May even put some 57 t-bird port holes on it. I can curve the edges by using different sizes of PVC. I think I am also going to make a fuel tank that sits dow in the wasted space in the very front. That way I may be able to get 1 suit case in the front.
I fully agree that those who keep this forum afloat should be recognized. Paul I want to thank you for all the time you must have to put in on this thing, I used to build web sites and it is a lot of work. Thanks again to you and all the crew involved. Next year send out a generic email to all forum members, and let those who can help. I would be glad to help.
It sounds like a lose or corroded conection. I had a berry mini t that had a similar problem, I cleaned and tightened all connections to the Parking/turn light affected and it worked fine. I would check and make sure that the fuel guage has two wires conected a ground and a wire to the guage. If you don’t have a good ground to the plate on the fuel guage you run the risk of a spark between the plate and the tank, NOT A GOOD PLACE FOR SPARKS. If two are there follow the old rule,”If it’s not broke, don’t fix it”.
Keep us posted as to what you find.
The oil streaks would indicate a leaking front main seal. The big price is pulling the engine.
You might want to look for any traces of oil showing in a streak when the engine is out to replace the throw out bearing. I would almost bet on a throw out bearing. I would also replace the clutch disk when it is apart. The disk is cheap. Buy good quality parts for the bearing. There some Chinese parts out there, and they are trouble. Good luck and welcome.
An old VW gas heater can be adapted for use if you want. Find a old VW Bus and it will run you out.
I am going to create one out of an aluminum frame and fiberglass. Will take pictures if I ever get it finished.
Are you sure it is not getting a little hot? If the oil pressure gets lower when it warms up it is probably running a little hot. That will cause a build up. Does it still have the heater boxes? If so you need the flex pipes from the fan connected, this will keep the boxes cooler They can cook the oil in the rocker covers. VW incorporated a small by pass hole to get rid of the heat when the heater is off. If you don’t use the heater then install J pipes to replace the heater boxes. I read an article on the Web that said full synthetic oil does not work well in VW’s because it does not conduct heat as well as non synthetic, it was designed for water cooled. VW’s are oil cooled!
So I ran some synthetic and checked the oil temp, and the changed to a synthetic blend 20w 50 and it ran 20 degrees cooler on the blend. That has been my experience.You need the VW heater Flexes. You can find them on Ebay. Then you need a piece of pipe to go through the wall to under the seat. If you use PVC get some that is rated for Hot Water, or else it may get soft. I would recommend relocating the speakers, the sound will be better.
The best place is on the cooling Housing on the left side as close as possible to the Generator. I would put in an alternator if it was me. I converted mine and it is great!
No dimming lights at Idle, and no regulator. You have to change the mounting base, and fuel pump and push rod. Takes about 2 hours to convert. It is just a much better system, less problems.
