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BRAVO! These are the stories that I like to read….particularly at Christmas time. God bless you and your organization for what you do.
Derek, thanks for the updated information and picture. At this time, I don’t plan on making side curtains (or windows). The top I am planning is pretty much for keeping me out of sun (doctors orders). If I do decide to make side windows, your plan looks good.
How heavy is your top? I am hoping to be able to make it light enough that I can take it on or off by myself.
Thanks for the pictures, Derek. I haven’t started on my top yet….still collecting ideas. I think using the vinyl top material hanging over the outside edge and utilizing the convertible top snaps is a great idea….I was wondering how to fasten the back of the top to the body and I think you nailed it. As far as finishing the inside, I plan to glue some type of fabric or carpet to the fiberglass. It looks like from your pictures that upholstering the inside with vinyl could be difficult. Anyway, I hope to get started on my project soon, and I will keep you posted on my progress.
I hope he does get $20K for his car. That means mine has quadrupled in value and then some. I wish mine got 45-50 mpg. I’m a little leery of the title being held by the Police Department, though. Things that make me go hmmmmmmm.
The Gas Monkey MG is on Ebay right now. Bid is at $2800 currently with about 5 days to go.
Derek, I just picked up a fresh box of 50 pair. That should be enough. By the way, why not just put yourself out of your misery and sell me your top. Seems it would be easier to fix yours than for me to make a new one. I’m just sayin”.
The chip they are referring to is the chip in the cars computer system that control fuel delivery, timing, shift points (if it’s an automatic) etc. These chips are available for a variety of applications and are a common modification made to todays cars. The nice thing about changing the chip is that you can change it back to stock in a minute or so.
Well, after adjusting my shifter plate, I got the old girl so she will change gears correctly, so all is right with the world. Now on to the next project….gonna build a fiberglass top. After making some sketches on toilet paper while lounging in the library, I think I have come up with a workable plan that should be pretty easy. (where have I heard that before) I figure I can use electrical conduit for the basic framework and cover that with sheets of fiberglass/plastic that I found at Menards. Then I’ll fiberglass the inside and cover the outside with 1/4 inch foam and vinyl top material. I’ll use wood for the front header and the rear portion below the back window. Easy Peasy. If it doesn’t work out I turn it into a bird bath or something. Anyway, it will keep me out of the saloons this winter.
Thanks, I’ll try that. When I rebuilt the shifter I added an adjustable fitting to the shift rod where it attaches to the coupler in the rear. I might try tweaking that a bit as well.
Well, I’m certainly glad to hear that. I was dangerously close to taking my freshly sharpened hatchet and chopping a hole in the back of my TD. I will sleep soundly tonight.
An update….I replaced the front bushing with a new one and also the bracket that holds it. I made a new shift rod with an adjustable rear fitting. Also replaced the rear coupler rubbers and installed a grade 8 3/8 bolt in place of that screwy thing with the screw going through it. I cut an access hole in the tunnel to make it easier to remove the shift rod and re-install all the new stuff. I welded the hole shut after I was finished. Took it out for a trial flogging today and it shifts like a new one. On the road again. Next project will be front wheel bearings and whatever else is worn out in the suspension.
Sorry to disappoint but the car is dark green, not black. Sort of wish it was black now.
I found the engine number (H0639554). The previous owner had the 1500 engine rebuilt in 2008 and increased the displacement to 1641cc. According to the engine number, it is a 1967. According to the chassis number (117592986) it is a 1967. The title says it’s a 1982 Assembled Vehicle, so I am guessing that the body number (822293-3) will indicate that it was built in 1982. I haven’t been able to find any information on the body numbers of Fiberfab TD’s.
Another question, do I have to completely remove the shift rod to install the new bushing? It looks to me like I can grease up the rod and slip the bushing on to the rear of the rod and inch it up to the front where it belongs. The inspection cover in the front of the frame pan is behind some of the body work and I don’t think the rod will come completely out.
OK, so last night I unbolted and removed the shift lever and I discovered that the bracket that is inside the tunnel that holds the plastic shift rod bushing isn’t fastened to the tunnel. It seems to me that it should be welded to the tunnel. How am I going to get everything back together after replacing the bushing if that bracket is loose in there. Am I missing something?
