Agree. IMO, the E-type convertible is the sexiest looking car ever made…I simply Love the curves!KentT2015-10-19 17:51:08

It’s a required part of the build. The FiberFab build manual is in the download section.

Ditto that! Also, is there a product name or source for that material that you can provide?

Lookin good!!! Really like that piping. I suggest you do the mod (Schu’s???) that uses straps woven across the bottom seat frame. Combine that with the thick foam, and it should be pretty comfy…

The engine tin sits higher than the valance unless you shim it up. My early FF also has an upturned flange on it, which complicates things.

Having lost a 69 Bug years ago to an engine fire, I always relocate them to the front of the car near the gas tank. For TDr’s they’re usually easily accessible from there underneath the bonnet. But, I’ve also put them underneath directly above where the metal tubing enters the tunnel. Since these can easily last 20,000 miles or more, it’s not like…[Read more]

I’m guessing that he has an aftermarket replacement engine block from Brazil or Mexico.

Welcome! Based on the fuel tank area, it appears to be a FiberFab. The gas tank should be mounted with clamps/brackets on the front and rear – two each, as I recall. Luckily, you can download the build manuals here, though you’ll likely find that the builder did some creative DIY things!

Speed costs! How fast do you want to go? 😉 26 mpg with your gearing is not really a surprise, IMO…

Hard to tell from the pictures, but if it is a VW swing-axle (1967 > ) rear suspension, that could be an aftermarket camber compensator.

Haven’t tried an inner tube, but that sounds like a good idea. The VW…[Read more]

IMO, the best thing you can do for cooling is to seal around the engine “tin” so that the engine draws in its COOLER air from the front and top, and NOT hot air from the sides or rear that is pulled up past the hot heads and exhaust.

I’m running 185/65s on stock 4.5″ wheels. 5.5s would’ve worked better for the wider tires, but the air pressure is so low on these TDrs, especially the front, that I don’t think they’ll abnormally wear the tread centers. Further, the front end is so light that I don’t think hard steering will be an issue.

BTW, they are intended to reduce torsional twist of the floorplan – not simply ftont to rear bending or bowing – the center tunnel withstands that. It’s the twisting force exerted on one front wheel or the other during hard cornering that they are trying to control. Stock Bug and Ghia convertibles used larger sheet-metal stiffeners similar to…[Read more]

They bolt through the floorplan. The bottom wall of the square tubing has a large hole in it, while the top wall has a normal sized bolt hole above it. A thick machined aluminum spacer with a marching bolt hole goes snugly up inside that large hole in the bottom of the tubing, and a longer mounting bolt goes through it. That spacer just fits into…[Read more]

I bought a set, but have not installed them yet. I just put the TDr in my new garage today, for the first time, so hopefully soon, soon…

Sweet! That will clean up nicely!

PayPal enroute…

Good luck, Allen! We’ll miss you!

Here’s the 15-3/4″ Flat 4 Banjo with 3 spokes that Roy mentioned. It might give better visibility for the gauges. $250 without the mounting hub.

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