Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Took me some more looking and a little rewiring and testing but think I have it all sorted out.
Path is such:
- Yellow wire (included in kit) powers fuse box – 4 circuits that are always on – circuits are labeled Relay, BrakeSW, Headlight, and HAZ/SPARA
- Fuse Box wire labeled “Power Feed Key Switch” goes from Fuse Box to ignition switch pin 30
- Circuit IGNON, with white wire labeled “Power Acc” goes from Fuse Box to ignition switch pin 15/54
- Black and red wire from ignition switch to starter (does not pass Go, does not collect $200)
- Coil is fed by a BlueWhite wire labeled ACC2 from the fuse box
Car started, gauges responded…well, tach responded. Fuel gauge was wonky when I got it, I fixed a ground issue before I did the rip out and had it working, back to wonky now.
Still to come:
- turn signals, sorting out which of the three wires off the front turn signal mean what
- Brake lights (should work, it’s a question of getting to see them, starting the car came first)
- fuel gauge
- horn
This is an adjusted wiring diagram for what I have now. I found the original someplace online because it was very close to what I have. Helped me sort out some of my lack of knowledge
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodySo…I’ve learned a lot in this process. One part of which is the cost of going cheap. I got a “WMPHE 12 Circuit Wiring Harness Universal Street Rod Wiring Harness 12 Fuses Standalone Wiring Harness” from Amazon for ~$50 and figured I’d rock and roll.
Gutted the pre-existing wiring and started mapping things out. Wires were labeled and color coded, so how hard could it be? Well.
Complaints…the wire labels don’t match the fuse box cover labels. Ok, that’s easy to change.
Colors don’t match standard colors of any sort. Ok.
No instructions. Well, there’s some but no wire diagram of what feeds what and so on.
So…now I’m into this and things are wired. I can start the car. But I can’t get power to the accessory side of things.
The kit has two wires which are “feeds” – one is “power feed” and the other is “power feed key switch”
Right now I have the
power feed directly to the battery
power feed key switch to the ignition battery input (pin 30, red wire, on the ignition switch)
ignition switch pin 15 (black wire) goes straight to the coil
ignition switch pin 50 (red/black wire) goes straight to the starter
My supposition is that the black wire for pin 15 needs to go someplace other than the coil and the coil needs to be fed from the accessory side of the fuse box. I’ve looked at multiple wiring diagrams and just get lost. The original VW diagrams are all showing glass fuses which I can’t track from, and they also show the battery feeding the headlights and then the ignition.
Where I get lost is things like “pin 30 ignition switch battery feed” in one place and then another says “30 battery power from headlight switch” and so on.
So, basically I think I need to know, what path should electricity take to get to the coil using a modern wiring harness?
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodyThanks for the response…I wish I had either a thick enough and fully intact fiberglass bottom or enough floorplan metal to do what you did…
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodyThanks! Oddly enough, that was the same one I had in my browser window!
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodyPainless Wiring kit from Summit Racing
Do you recall which kit – even generally? A quick look showed me ~70 different kits.
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodyWhere’d you get this cover? Very cool.
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodyClosing some loops here…
Turned out to be a stuck pressure plate or disk (according to the experienced gentlemen who did the repair)
They also adjusted the cable and added some transaxle fluid
Now I need to go back and redo the adjustments that Eric mentioned above – was having difficulty finding first and second today. But, at least I am driving again!
Now to do some searching on electrical before I post a new question.Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodyYou should have about 1/2″ of light pedal travel before you feel heavier resistance as the throwout bearing engages
This is my next step – sorting out how tight to make the clutch cable. I already know it should be replaced down the line – it has a repair with a couple of wire clips.
Anyway…looking to see it I can tighten the clutch cable much more than the extra inch I already did on the cable…if that doesn’t do it, time to call some local shops.
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug body…so bushing swapped out, all reinstalled. Changed out the turn signal switch and refinished the steering wheel since I wouldn’t be driving waiting for parts.
And while getting in the car, steering wheel still removed, my pants caught the turn signal lever and broke it. 😳 👿
And, the problem I was hoping to correct – grinding gears while shifting – is still there.
But, at least I learned a lot?
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug body@mcgruff – thanks!
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug body@mcgruff – definitely mouse nest. Already replaced the seat foam and plywood base…thought that was it. Got a ton out but will need to get the rest some other day…with a good shop vac.
My rod was welded – and thank you for the great explanation because I saw the weld when I cleaned the rod up but had no clear understanding of why.
Feeding the rod through the bushing was a piece of cake…once I got the connector section through. That took some doing but fortunately there were two holes on each side, just forward of the bushing and I could get long allen wrenches in and use them as levers.
All put together now…tomorrow or Sunday wire up the turn signal switch I’m replacing because…seemed like a good time…and then see if I put the shifter back together correctly…
Speaking of…should the plate – reverse lockout and the piece that holds the shifter arm in…should that move?
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodyUpdating as I take a break…
Found the inspection port…and…well…I’ll let the pics speak for themselves.
And PEX tubing was my friend.
Since the shift rod wouldn’t move past the obstructions in the tunnel, I ran PEX in from the front, fished it through the shifter hole then back out with parachute cord attached. Attached that to the end of the shifter rod and pulled on through.
Since I am by myself I used the parachute cord on a loop so I could wiggle the rod back and forth and up and down. Worked well. Now to wire brush things…then lunch…then reassembly.
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodyHopefully just once…small spaces and arthritis aren’t helping things…
As I continue looking for videos…is there any way of installing the bushing without entirely removing the rod? If not, where will I find the inspection port?
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug bodyI’m living this pain as well…part coming tomorrow from JBugs so this weekend will be the reinstall attempt…
Pippa the War Pig
Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug body
