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  • #307676
    Michael Junge
    Participant

    @nauticalinfidel

    I did some searching…maybe a dozen times…and while I found some nice pics and saw both that my wiring challenges are not unique AND that they can be cleaned up I’m having some difficulty translating the MiGi_Wiring_Harness, CMC_VW_Assembly_Manual, and the MiGi_II_Assembly_Manual into what I see on the car. The assembly instructions are fine…but they aren’t so good for troubleshooting.

    And sometimes my eyes and hands don’t work so well either.

    Looking at the attached pics:

    Which side of the fuses are connected to the battery? The one with the yellow wires? If so…isn’t there a cleaner and easier way to make that end hot? And what are the two non-yellow wires likely to be?

    Should there be a second fuse block? One for the energized all the time and one for the energized with the ignition on?

    What does the junction box do? What purpose does it serve?

    Seems like a lot more wires than there should be…but…

    Thanks much…



    Pippa the War Pig
    Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug body

    #307677
    crash55
    Participant

    @crash55

    with key off take test light & check . that will tell you which circuit is hot all the time .  then take the fuses out turn key on check each end of where the fuse connects that will tell you which is supply to the circuit . also pull the supply (hot wire ) to the coil when you test with key on so you do not burn the points out . I would not trust wire color unless you made the harness .

    • This reply was modified 4 months, 3 weeks ago by crash55.
    #307680
    Dennis Frey
    Participant

    @denber6300

    Boy, does that ever look familiar.  Fuse blocks and ground blocks look exactly like MY Daytona MiGi’s when I got her.  Only my wires were ALL green, and a tangled bird’s nest. I spent days and days, weeks and weeks, trying to trace circuits down.  My son ( pretty versed in VW’s ) talked me into scrapping it all and starting over.  I purchased a Painless Wiring kit from Summit Racing.  With the patient help of my son, 4 days later it was up and running, all circuits working.  The kit isn’t VW specific, but ALL the wires come out of a blade type fuse block, and each wire is colored, numbered, and labeled.  Made it “somewhat” Painless.

    #307681
    Michael Junge
    Participant

    @nauticalinfidel

    Painless Wiring kit from Summit Racing

    Do you recall which kit – even generally? A quick look showed me ~70 different kits.

    Pippa the War Pig
    Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug body

    #307682
    Dennis Frey
    Participant

    @denber6300

    It’s a Basic Custimizable Chassis Harness  P/N  #10308   .  The directions/instructions are pretty straight-forward.  Mine is a 1970 VW Bug 1600 dual port. Like you,  I researched all the  available wiring diagrams before going with the Painless Kit, and still had to refer to them a little bit on some circuits.

    #307683
    Michael Junge
    Participant

    @nauticalinfidel

    Thanks!  Oddly enough, that was the same one I had in my browser window!

    Pippa the War Pig
    Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug body

    #307866
    Michael Junge
    Participant

    @nauticalinfidel

    So…I’ve learned a lot in this process.  One part of which is the cost of going cheap. I got a “WMPHE 12 Circuit Wiring Harness Universal Street Rod Wiring Harness 12 Fuses Standalone Wiring Harness” from Amazon for ~$50 and figured I’d rock and roll.

    Gutted the pre-existing wiring and started mapping things out. Wires were labeled and color coded, so how hard could it be? Well.

    Complaints…the wire labels don’t match the fuse box cover labels.  Ok, that’s easy to change.

    Colors don’t match standard colors of any sort.  Ok.

    No instructions.  Well, there’s some but no wire diagram of what feeds what and so on.

    So…now I’m into this and things are wired.  I can start the car.  But I can’t get power to the accessory side of things.

    The kit has two wires which are “feeds” – one is “power feed” and the other is “power feed key switch”

    Right now I have the

    power feed directly to the battery

    power feed key switch to the ignition battery input (pin 30, red wire, on the ignition switch)

    ignition switch pin 15 (black wire) goes straight to the coil

    ignition switch pin 50 (red/black wire) goes  straight to the starter

    My supposition is that the black wire for pin 15 needs to go someplace other than the coil and the coil needs to be fed from the accessory side of the fuse box.  I’ve looked at multiple wiring diagrams and just get lost. The original VW diagrams are all showing glass fuses which I can’t track from, and they also show the battery feeding the headlights and then the ignition.

    Where I get lost is things like “pin 30 ignition switch battery feed” in one place and then another says “30 battery power from headlight switch” and so on.

    So, basically I think I need to know, what path should electricity take to get to the coil using a modern wiring harness?

    Pippa the War Pig
    Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug body

    #307867
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    What feeds the hot-ignition side of your fuse box?

    (By memory; grain of salt) my car has battery + running to the big starter lug, Battery – bolted to the frame and feeding a grounding buss under the dash. Fat red 10g + wire from battery to the key switch at 30, then two wires that test + go from that. The key-on + wire goes to the fuse box to feed everything…except: The + at all times runs to separate fuses that control the headlights and horn, both of which are wired to the switches via relays.

    The coil wire is just one of many that heads out from the fuse panel to the other stuff in the car.

     

     

    #307870
    Michael Junge
    Participant

    @nauticalinfidel

    Took me some more looking and a little rewiring and testing but think I have it all sorted out.

    Path is such:

    • Yellow wire (included in kit)  powers fuse box – 4 circuits that are always on – circuits are labeled Relay, BrakeSW,  Headlight, and HAZ/SPARA
    • Fuse Box wire labeled “Power Feed Key Switch” goes from Fuse Box to ignition switch pin 30
    • Circuit IGNON, with white wire labeled “Power Acc” goes from Fuse Box to ignition switch pin 15/54
    • Black and red wire from ignition switch to starter (does not pass Go, does not collect $200)
    • Coil is fed by a BlueWhite wire labeled ACC2 from the fuse box

    Car started, gauges responded…well, tach responded.  Fuel gauge was wonky when I got it, I fixed a ground issue before I did the rip out and had it working, back to wonky now.

    Still to come:

    • turn signals, sorting out which of the three wires off the front turn signal mean what
    • Brake lights (should work, it’s a question of getting to see them, starting the car came first)
    • fuel gauge
    • horn

    This is an adjusted wiring diagram for what I have now. I found the original someplace online because it was very close to what I have.  Helped me sort out some of my lack of knowledge

    Pippa the War Pig
    Dayton MiGi riding on a 1968 VW Bug body

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