Hi William,

I just searched for “seat belts with mg logo” and found many vendors in addition to the traditional ones you mention. Ranged from eBay and Etsy to known parts vendors.

And a recommendation … replace them with the original style black rubber; not the silicone. Original style will last longer!

And a recommendation … replace them with the original style black rubber; not the silicone. Original style will last longer!

1979

Here’s a history I wrote about Classic Roadsters Ltd.: https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/classic-roadsters-ltd-history/

Stefan

Originals were screwed to the dash with Phillips head screws. They were also usually painted black or tan.

Nothing wrong with going with a polished plate. You might have to make that plate look worse before it gets better; sanding with increasingly fine sandpaper, then polish (similar to sanding and polishing modern headlights).

Stefan,

First, let’s find out what your actual gas mileage is. We’d be able to offer better opinions.

Meanwhile … I had a VW based TDr with a dual port, dual carb, 1776cc engine. Normal mixed local/highway use was a little over 20 mpg.

@renet

Rene, you can determine the year of the donor VW using this chart

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bugchassisdating.php

Don’t think I can help with determining the year of your kit.

Paul

@renet Rene, that is exactly what I was referring to. Some states would use the VIN of the donor car as the VIN for the completed replica, other states would assign a new VIN.

@renet, yes. The number stamped into the VW tunnel is the VIN for your VW donor car.

It may have been used as the VIN for the MG replica. But that varies by state.

FYI – I have not updated the master list for several years. My bad. I just copied all the new member info and took it off line. It takes a lot of manual editing to get it into the right format for the initial post. I’ll be working on that and will update the master list.

Valuation questions are very difficult to answer, as you might have guessed by the lack of responses to your post.

I have seen folks asking $15k and even higher. I think that’s unreasonable. You can get a fairly clean, drivable original TD for that money.

For a clean, running TDr, $5 to $10k seems to be in the ballpark. But it better be a very…[Read more]

More than happy to help!

Ray

Welcome!

You need a early VW bus speedometer cable. They are approx 6 feet 9 inches

Here’s one for ‘…[Read more]

James, $5,500 is a good price for a clean TDr.

I see a lot of ads in the $15k range. You can find clean original TDs for that price. And while I wish it were so, I stand by my opinion that these are not fifteen thousand dollar cars.

The eBay post Mark shared ended with no sale. Of course, that could mean the dealer sold it outside of eBay.

The engine code:

H5351754

H5 1968-69 1500cc 44bhp DIN, 53HP SAE M157 USA/Canada

The rest of it is just a serial number.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php

Good deal Stefan.

Happy you found your answer here!

Dale,

This isn’t going to directly answer your question…but…

Shocks should not be used to level a car or adjust ride height. The earlier term for shocks (dampers) is far more descriptive of their sole purpose. They control rebound, when your suspension is compressed.

If the car is not sitting level, there must be some other issue going on.…[Read more]

Brian,

The fuse box in my Duchess was under the dash, on the top left side of the bulkhead.

@ryanmendonca

I emailed you a couple weeks ago, using the email in your profile (I’m an admin, so I can see that info). Did you receive it?

Stephen,

How to describe sound with words… how about enhanced VW? Slightly louder than a stock VW, but a much nicer sound. Certainly not overbearing. Not sure it factors into your equation, but more info better than less … this was on a 1776 VW engine.

Top down, just a nice burble from the rear. Top up, seems the roof acts like a megaphone,…[Read more]