Brian

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Viewing 22 posts - 1 through 22 (of 22 total)
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  • #236930
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    What company maunfactured your replica, Fiberfab, Classic Motor

    Carriages, British Coach Works, etc.?

    Additionally, is it a front or rear engine kit? What is the exterior

    color, interior color, and roof color?

    Cheers

    Brian

    #236919
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    I believe that Fiberfab cars have that bump. BCWs do not. I hope

    that

    helps.

    #236918
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    I believe that Fiberfab cars have that bump. BCWs do not. Hope that

    helps.

    #236811
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    The Ebay item number is 8068558818. The title is British

    Coach Works BCW Hub Cap 1952 MGTD MG TD Replica. My

    Ebay user name is 1984whales. If you have any questions

    please feel free to contact me.

    Brian

    #236790
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    If you have any BCW components leftover after your rebuild

    that you are going to get rid of, like the gauges, please let me

    know. I am collecting BCW stuff whenever I can find it.

    Brian

    #236807
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    What company made the kit, Fiberfab, BCW, CMC, etc?

    #236788
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    Hi Pink MG,

    You might be interested to know that the company that made

    the BCW gauges is still in business. They can repair, reglaze,

    restore gauges if you are interested.

    Brian

    #236794
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    Hi,

    BCWs have a spare tire carrier with a real spare tire. The spare

    tire can swing out of the way when you want to open the

    engine lid on VW models. I would be happy to send you some

    close up photos to aid you in your modifications. Send me your

    emails.

    Cheers,

    Brian

    #236771
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    If you have a BCW replica check out Ebay. BCW used the

    original TD windshields which come up for sale quite often on

    Ebay.

    Brian

    #236693
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    Slogram,

    BCW’s id plates should be located in the trunk on the cowl (this

    is the body piece underneath the windshield).

    A few suggestions for identifying a BCW in a photo.

    If the car you are looking at has suitcase type hinges on the

    hood, it is not a BCW. BCW used a long stainless steel hinge

    on the driverside similar to the original TD type hinge.

    If it does not have a real spare tire, it is not a BCW.

    BCW’s will only have original TD windshield components, tail

    lights, and running lights. Take a look at Jerry’s car. Fyi, there

    was another kit car company that used the same original MG

    parts, but only in its top line model. BCW only used original

    parts.

    BCW did not use faux wire wheel hubcats, although owners

    could have put them on themselves. BCW’s hubcats did have a

    BCW on center emblem.

    These are just a few key things to look at in any photo to see if it

    is a BCW.

    If in doubt feel free to contact me.

    Brian

    BCW #183

    #236685
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    If I see a BCW for sale anywhere, I will let you know. Usually,

    one comes up for sale every two months.

    Brian

    BCW #183

    #236686
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    Hi,

    Unfortunately many replicar companies cut corners using parts

    such as the lights that were not authentic MGTD. I do not want

    to be critical of any of the other kits, since beauty is truly in the

    eye of the beholder, especially when it comes to a car that you

    built yourself and put your heart and soul into.   Rather, I would

    recommend that you find a British Coach Works car like I have

    if you are looking for authenticity. BCW made both front and

    rear engine kits. The fiberglass parts were of exceptional

    quality and came from the factory trimmed and predrilled.

    Practically all the accesory/trim parts on the car, other than the

    fiberglass body panels, were original MGTD parts purchased

    from Moss motors, a supplier of replacement TD parts.   BCW

    used the following original TD parts, windshield, front and rear

    lights, bumpers, fender mirrors, license lamp, door handles,

    hood support, door hinges, grill, rubber trim, and others.

    Original TD body panels were used to make all the body molds

    used for the fiberglass. BCW’s also have a real spare tire

    unlike some kits.

    The BCW company prided itself on making an authentic TD kit.

    My father and I choose to build a BCW over other kits 20 years

    ago because of this, and I feel that it was an extremely honest

    advertisement. If I were to do it all over again, I would chose

    BCW again, albeit I would probably build a front engine model

    instead. Hope that helps.

    Brian

    #236674
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    What type of TD replica do you have Jim? Fiberfab, Classic

    Roadster, British Coach Works, etc.????????

    Brian

    #236471
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    I use racing seat belts in my rear engine BCW. The 3″ wide lap

    belt is bolted to the tunnel on the inside and to the reinforced

    corner of the floor pan (near the rear torsion bar) on the

    outside. They have worked very well for me in these mounting

    positions and are comfortable.

    You don’t want to skip using a shoulder restraint —- you and

    your passenger WILL regret it. A friend of mine wrecked her TD

    replicar. It was a small front end collision but because she

    didn’t have a shoulder harness she hit the steering wheel and

    caused serious damage to her face and throat.

    I have a 2″ racing shoulder harness with my belt. It has two

    straps (one for each shoulder) and they connect to the lap belt

    at the clasp. I connected it to a steel frame that I made that sits

    in front of the engine, underneath the body and roof. The frame

    connects to BCW’s subframe.

    The lap and shoulder belts work very well for me. They make

    driving the car more enjoyable because I don’t move around at

    all. The only disadvantage (a small price to pay) is that the

    racing seat belts take longer to put on than a standard car

    seatbelt.

    I would be happy to provide more information if anyone would

    like it.

    Brian

    #236452
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    Can someone please post a picture of teardrop, so that I may

    see what one looks like. FYI, I have hoping to find/make a

    small trailer for my BCW too.

    Brian

    #236435
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    Hi all,

    On my BCW rather than moving the bench seat back and forth,

    which would be uncomfortable because the steering wheel

    would be to close to the driver?s chest, I made pedal extenders

    for shorter drivers to use. The extenders bolt onto the clutch

    and brake pedals. The accelerator seemed to be all right for

    everyone. The extenders work well except that they take a

    couple of minutes to put on and they have to be taken off before

    I can drive. They also beat up my pedal pads, although with a

    simple design change I could resolve that problem.

    I have been toying with the idea of going to a fully hydraulic

    pedal assembly (clutch, brake, and accelerator pedals).

    Performance VW shops like Bugstuff and CB Performance

    carry hydraulic pedal assemblies for dune buggies. With the

    hydraulic assemblies, pressing on the pedal actuates a piston

    behind the pedal creating pressure in a line running to a slave

    cylinder that turns that pressure into movement, just as in any

    braking system. With the use of flexible hoses at the pedals (to

    connect them to the steel lines) and a pedal track mounting

    system, all three pedals could be easily relocated for different

    drivers. Performance shops also carry track systems for

    mounting the pedals to the floor pan.

    Brian

    #236420
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    Mark,

    I am very jealous of your new seats. I can smell the leather in

    the photo. My BCW still has the “rich corinthian leather” that

    came with the kit but someday I will upgrade. If I may ask, what

    did it cost?

    Also what was the manufacturer of this poor car that you are

    rescuing? I can’t believe that someone who would build their

    own car, would leave it sit outside in such a condition. My BCW

    has always been parked indoors, except on my journey cross

    country.

    BTW, the process you went through, the things you learned, the

    mistakes you made or didn’t, and the company you used, as

    you installed leather seating in your car would be a great FYI

    post in the General Discussion section.

    Brianssa84whales38301.3722800926

    #236169
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    There is a 1977 VW Beetle chasis with IRS for sale at

    http://www.kitcars.com for about $500, if you are interested.ssa84whales38294.4414583333

    #236406
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    I would recommend that you find a later model chassis with IRS

    (Independent Rear Suspension) like I have. From what I have

    read in the past the Swing Axle models apparently have some

    undesirable handling characteristics, albeit I have no personal

    experience with them. You can find a fairly thorough

    discussion of IRS and Swing Axle in ?How to Hot Rod

    Volkswagon Engines? by Bill Fisher.

    Off hand, some other basic things I can recommend that you do

    in your project.

    Thoroughly rebuild your chassis (sandblast/paint/new ball

    joints/new brake and fuel lines, new brake master cylinder,

    rebuilt steering box, new wheel bearings, rebuild CV joints,

    transmission, etc). Check the tunnel sections very carefully for

    rust. New sections are available that you can have welded in if

    you find any problems. Better to handle problems now than

    after you have put the body back on. Make sure everything is

    perfectly straight and level, and a chassis in the the end that is

    as good as new.

    After painting, coat the entire chassis with 3M?s Rustfree. This

    is clear rustproofing that will allow you to see any rust that

    might pop up in the future rather than hide it like a typical tar

    based rustproofing does. Don?t glue anything like your carpets

    to the chassis. This is a roadster, you will get poured on some

    day, and if you can?t lift the carpets to dry it out you?ll get rust.

    Check the suspension carefully and install one of the

    aftermarket products that will allow height adjustment on the

    rear suspension when it sags.   This can?t be done later without

    removing the body. Install caster shims on the front for better

    handling.

    Upgrade to both front and rear disc brakes. You won?t regret it.

    Eliminate the stock mechanical fuel pump and install a rotary

    electric pump in the front under the tank.

    Upgrade from a generator to an alternator for better electrical

    output.

    Make sure that your steering column and the extension are

    perfectly inline with the steering box. This is critical. If there is

    a bend, even the slightest, it will put strain on the safety section,

    which will break while driving.

    BTW, what company made your MGTD kit?

    Hope that helps, Brian

    #236404
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    Hi Jim,

    Are you starting from scratch — finding and rebuilding your own

    VW chasis? I actually didn’t realize that there were any

    companies out there still making MGTD replica kits.

    Brian

    #236400
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    1973 Standard Beetle chasis with IRS and manual trans.

    Brian

    #236181
    Brian
    Participant

    @ssa84whales

    That is great info. I have two questions.

    First, If you already have a lowered front suspension via the

    cut-rotate-weld the upper torsion bar method can/should the

    secondary leaves be removed, if so how many, and how will

    this in turn affect handling?

    Second, I currently just have the stock sway bar on the front. It

    has been reccomended to me by some (but not all) VW experts

    that I install the 1″ dia front sway bar and a 1″ dia rear sway bar.

    I currently don’t have any rear sway bar. Can anyone tell me

    from experience with their TD how this will affect handling on

    my TD replica and how would the large front and rear sway

    bars interact with the removal of leaf springs?

    Thank you

    Brianssa84whales38281.958599537

Viewing 22 posts - 1 through 22 (of 22 total)