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Well, had a great day yesterday, Lauren and I took Ally out for a shakedown cruise. Lauren has started a list of places we can visit with Ally yesterday was an old church in Sharron Vermont. Ally is running well, but I still have an idle problem. could someone let me know what the carb presets are. I have a solex 30 pict pic 1 or 3 carb I have the Volume control out 3 turns. I have the main jet out 21/2 to 3 and have the accelerator pump adjusted mid way. I’m using a stock coil that appears 10 years old or more. I’ve changed plugs nd points still stalls at stop. I’ve even played with throttle to no avail. It rides nice, we went about 250 miles yesterday through Vermont and New Hampshire just stayed away from red lights and stop signs.
Wow ! Talk about a cruise , you took what I call a trip. Glad you could get out and enjoy yourselves.
About your idle problem,
At what rpm does it stop running? You mentioned playing with the throttle, are you talking about the idle speed adjustment? Does it seem to run rich before it actually stops? Is the idle adjustment screw contacting the stop? Is the choke opening up when the engine gets warmed up? I’m trying to eliminate all the external reasons before going to the inside of the carb.,mainly because I don’t much about the inside. Hope this helps.
I was wrong which might explian problem it is a 34 pict3 Cant find presets please help.
did you see this?
http://www.angelfire.com/tx2/ntnb/Carb_Instructions.htm
illustrated, even. hope it helps.
edsnova40245.5997106481
I have now figured out the engine is ADR47926P produced between 1970 and 1973. I have a solex 34 pict 3 carb and a Distributer # 0231178009 Z42. I have tuned and replaced coil. I just found out the Idle cut off valve might be faulty and in that process found pin hole in Intake manifold. One would explain Idle and the other would explain Hesitation and stutter. Thoughts. Someone, come kick the tires, have a brown one and offer your thoughts.
Richard, where is the timing set? At idle, are you at 7.5 before TDC, as with a single vacuum advance distributor, or at 5 after TDC, as is the custom with a double vacuum distributer?
And since you have the 009 distributor, you’re supposed to time it at about 28-32 degrees max advance (2800 rpm+) instead of relying on the idle timing, according to this:
http://www.type2.com/library/electrip/bosch009.htm
I’d seal up the vacuum leak and then check gap the points at .016 again, check the dwell, reset timing, then go back to the carb settings.
First make sure the choke is righteous. Standing up straight when warm? If not, adjust it straight (not sure if this is one where you can just bend the accentuator arm attached to the butterfly).
All that’s done? Car is warmed up nice?
Now back the fast idle screw all the way out, and turn it back in so it is just touching the bottom of the first step. Now turn it another quarter turn. that’ll open the throttle about .004″.
Now turn the volume control screw all the way in, and back it out 2.5 turns. All this is illustrated here. These are your presets.
Start her up and use the bypass screw (the bigger screw next to the volume screw) to set idle at 850 rpm.
Return to the volume screw, try going in and out a half turn until the idle is fastest. Then tighten it slowly just until the rpms drop slightly.
Then turn the bypass screw in until the idle is back to 850.
If you still have stalling problems after this, then you might have a faulty idle cutoff valve, or some other gremlin. It’s not unheard-of for a new coil to be bad–on rare occasions they’re weak when they get warm, and you stall.
Okay we’re getting closer. Repaired hole in manifold readjusted carb. Runs fine for first 15 minutes then stalls at low rpms.(she drops from 1200 rpms to 400 than stalls) Just reordered another coil try that. If that doesn’t work will try idle cutoff valve. this still clicks but when removed its not tight a lot if play in piston. If that doesn’t work will try carb rebuild. Question today is. I don’t understand this vacuum distributer thing but after a great deal of reading it seems my carb and dist are not compatible. going to keep chugging but doesn’t look good.
Trying without any success to find a vacuum leak, I used a propane torch unlit, and when the motor increased RPMs I had the leak.
I discovered a trick when I first got my MiGi. I f its running too lean you can manually richen the mixture by pushing the lever on the accelerator pump. It will run smoothly for a few seconds then get rough again. I have dual carbs so as long as one is working you can play with the other one. I found the passage to the 3 intermediate fuel supply holes near the throttle plate were pluged with varnish fro sitting for a long time. Cleaned it out and it runs great now. read the carb article under vw hints on this site.
Good luck
Chuck
Lots of great info on OEM (Pict-30 and 34’s) VW carb/distributor combinations on http://www.thesamba.com
One member, Glenn, is in Long Island, NY and is a VW/Bosch distributor EXPERT. He even sells completely restored units.
A few weeks agao, a guy posted a carb to distrbutor chart that would be very helpful to the VW based TD guys.
I have been fighting carburator problems with the car not having any low rpm torque and running rough around 2000 rpms. I did find that when I adjusted the choke to keep it somewhat closed it ran better. So, I figured that it was running too lean. I removed the main jet and found it to be a 120. I replaced it with a 127 and now it runs really good, even with the choke wide open. A $5 fix. I was considering a Weber progressive set up for a lot more money.
Jack
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