Simply disconnecting it will prevent any draining caused by car’s wiring harness, though they’ll slowly discharge without a load.  (Should you remove it, DO NOT set it on a concrete floor for storage.  Put wood underneath it, or set it up on a shelf.) Hooking it up to a 2amp  battery maintainer/automatic trickle charger will keep it topped off and at full charge when you put it back in the spring…

I know that there are lots of schools of thought on this one. Here’s my advice: (knowing you live in the Buffalo, NY area)

1. Change the engine oil.
2. Empty the fuel tank into 5 gallon cans for your snowblower.
3. Run the engine until the carburetors are dry and the engine runs out of fuel and stops. This is especially important with cars where you burn ethanol.
4. Remove battery, charge it fully and take inside a heated garage or in your house.
5. Don’t worry about it. Take a couple of gallons of new gas and a freshly charged battery down when ready, and she’ll start right up.
Royal2014-12-13 21:28:24

I’ll stick with my recommendation above. However, if you are simply going to put in an additive, you may want to use one of the “marine grade” since our fuel systems all breathe, unlike newer engines.

See:
http://petelandrysrealgas.com/2013/02/why-marine-formula-sta-bil-should-be-your-fuel-additive-of-choice/
PMOSSBERG2014-12-14 09:11:57

I use sta-ble in the gas and a trickle charger on the battery.  I also try to start it once a month or so, usually there is a couple winter days almost warm enough (50*) to take short rides ( fine for me but not the wife). 

Hey y all, speaking of gasoline treatments, gas with ethanol in it, what harm does that do to our older VW engines? Should we use an additive, or try and find non ethanol?

Just a thought”…………. Dave

The engines can handle unleaded fuel without adding anything, especially since dual-ports and later have hardened valve stems and valve guides…

The problem with ethanol is that it causes many rubber and neopreme things like gas lines, seals, etc to soften and swell.  Also, if parked for a long time, ethanol attracts moisture from the air — ethanol is the primary ingredient of “dry-gas” additives.  This trapped water tends to form acids in the motor’s oil, and become corrosive…

Ethanol gas also will destabilize (i.e. separate), forming varnish and goop, much faster than 100% gasoline.  Its shelf life is really 60 days or so…

So, for long-term storage either empty all gas or make sure the tank is full (less air = less moisture) and use an additive such as Stabil to avoid problems…