I don’t believe the length of the channel will make any difference. The travel of the float arm is your main concern. My channel is cut down to about four inches so I could make it fit into the tank. Just be sure the location of the float mount allows for full travel.

I second what the other guys said but based on my experience, I also recommend you make sure the top of the sending unit is level if you can possibly do so.

My gas gauge works but it’s about as dependable as a broken clock; it’s right twice a day.  It sometimes won’t show full for quite a while after a fillup; then it sometimes continues to show full when it’s actually 3/4 full; it sometimes drops suddenly by 1/4 tank or more; and it shows empty when there is still quite a bit of gas visible.  The resistance values have been checked and adjusted several times and the new mechanic assures me the float is okay.  I’m pretty sure the problem is that the top of the tank isn’t level.  The tank (and thus the sending unit) slant toward the front of the car.  I’m pretty sure this makes the float either “hang” or not read properly.  Not much I can do about that other than to fill the tank when the gauge starts to drop.  Of course, that’s at least a clue about the tank and therefore better than nothing — and “nothing” was what I had when I got the car because the gauge then wasn’t working at all.

Allen: The original VW float works pretty well—for the original VW gauge and exciter. For the kit gauge you ought to use the kit float and sender: they will have the correct ohms to make that gauge close to right.

As the kit setup is a universal part, made for any gas tank, it’s not surprising that it’s too long (or deep) for your particular application. Probably is made to be cut down. No problem.

If I were you I would dry test it: hook it up to 12 volt power and ground, and wire the gauge as if in the car, then move the float slowly from perpendicular down through its full travel. See how that reads on the gauge. Adjust as needed.