I agree, it simply looks good.

When you go in for an oil change or basic tune-up, your mechanic may offer an engine flush. Motor flushes are among those services that are offered much more frequently than they are really needed. Source of article: The basics of an engine flush. 

Do you still have this one? what about the heater kit?

edsnova,
e-mailed gbdick his car front end is the same as mine.Somehow they were able to put vw tow bar on it.He lives 5 or 6 hrs from me.
think spring

Great tip, Joe, thanks!

Ahh, the dreaded 009 “flat spot.”If you figure out the tow bar thing let us know. I carry a random assortment of tools right now, but intend this spring to correct my carry-on to conform closely to Muir’s “stage 2” tool kit. Anything beyond that i figure is why AAA exists.

I really like the shot with the skyline. Just gorgeous!

Ed, I’m going from a 009 (100% centrifugal) to a 231 137 035 (100% vacuum) advance distributor as a bit of an experiment.  I am taking out a 009 that was timed at max advance of 30-32 degrees.  I only get about 23 mpg and do have a slight hesitation when passing through 2300rpm on accelleration.   It’s not too bad, – I’m just playing.  I usua…[Read more]

Vacuum advance. Don’t understand this general attachment to the 009.I keep the point kit in the car and actually used it last year when she conked out on the way to Bug Out in Manassas. Turned out to be a bad coil, but the swap did work. I swapped it back after I got home.You might get away with more than 30 degrees total timing, or even a few…[Read more]

Ed Thanks fo rthe pics   awesome !.. jebarry40939.4962384259

Ed, Which distributor do you have?  I was planning to set the advance at 28-32 favoring 32 (assuming that it ran well).  If all goes well today, I will put my “new” 231 137 035 stock SVA in and keep my 009 in my trunk  with points set and ready to go as a spare. 

I’ve got Valvoline 20-50 racing oil in there now, with extra ZDDP. I think 10-40 would be better though, except for maybe July-August.Change it at 2000 miles or so. I think I did 2350 or so with the full synthetic I accidentally bought last year (Royal Purple; didn’t read the label). By 2000 she’d used half a quart so I needed to top up. I put in…[Read more]

From all my reading, lack of zinc is the main concern in new oils.  I, too, would be using air cooled motorcycle oil if I could afford it.  Very pricey.  If you find one that is even close to the automotive oils in price, I’d like to know.  I usually run 20W50, but that was before I changed oil pumps to a 26mm Schadek from a worn out stock one.…[Read more]

My coice for oil this time around.Fresh 1641 build.
I went with a fleet farm brand diesel oil.
my concerne is that todays oils are designed for todays engines,LESS of the antifriction additives(mainly zinc) for flat tappet cams,and more detergents that plug up the cat,wich we don’t have.
I was just searching oils for old engines this morning,and…[Read more]

Awesome Ed, thanks for sharing and being our eyes when we can’t be there!

More Berkeley love.Super nice resto & some neat old slides of racing Berkeleys from back in the day.Again I say: British fiberglass cars with air-cooled engines. These things are our blood brothers.

Greg,
1.  You will get all sorts of recommendations on oil.  The more you ask, the more comments.  VW recommends multigrade.  In your climate 10W40 is a good choice.  I run Castrol GTX.  Every 2000 miles is what I do but once again it depends on a lot of variables.  At least every 3000 miles with dropping the screen and cleaning it also. 
2.  I…[Read more]

Schu, I was not aware that the fancy aftermarket pulleys did not have the reverse spiral cut into them to channel oil back to the crankcase.  Thanks.  Enough said.
Dale, my guy (Dalton) has had his own one man shop for 35 years and works almost exclusively on air cooled bugs.  But if you want to talk about putting on bigger jugs or 2 fancy ca…[Read more]

Thx Dale….Also with the ol pulley it was difficult to keep the slack out
of the belt…it would not tighten properly…btw roy I got silver lake info
thru a link you gave me refering to another guy in new bern…thx
darrell also came recommended thru salem imports in Salem va.
Darrell has been working on air cooled V W’s around 28 yrs.

Roy,
The original German pulleys also work better – they are
designed to sling the oil back into the engine – if you
have a drip back there it is most likely because you are
using a after market pulley and it was not machined
correctly. I had this problem and went back to German NOS
and all was good. It may not look as good, but works.
Dale