Wow. Just wow. Carry on, and good luck. Thanks for all the pics and descriptions. When I finally take Bridget apart and re-do her this will help build my confidence.

Yes it is an automatic…sorry should have said that in the beginning.Thanks 1oldbuzz.  That explains the missing horns.  I’ve been searching the Samba site and haven’t hit on it yet but I’ll keep looking with the new info.Also, now that I look at the photo above I see that the last character is an “E” not a “1”

looks to be a fully automatic from a type 3,as previously posted.I had one,and yes the traditional frame horns need to be removed because the tranny is to wide.the drive axles are also 2 differnt lengths on these. Look on the samba site may find the info over there.

Has anyone engineered a roll bar that mirrors the highest top bow?

and no airbags or shoulder harnesses as part of the seat belt, either. Power with caution will be my motto.

ouch!!!! maybe  a little to much power. just some thing to consider 

I’ve checked all the transaxle codes and part number lists I have and nothing. Although I do not have the Type 34 Karmann Ghia or industrial data. But I’m leaning towards a Type 3 (fastback, squareback, notchback) or a Porsche 9XX something mid engine transaxle. By any chance is it an automatic? Things that make you go…[Read more]

Here’s an estimate on mileage and cost.  Should I insist on an enclosed trailer since it has no top at this time?  Too bad that I can’t get three days off to drive this myself.  I’d rather take more time, drive a few more miles, and come down the Oregon and California coast some day.1099 Miles, Total Rate: $958.00.

MGLondonRoadste40799.9281944444

  Well it did turn out to be worse than i hoped ,the harness is burned all the way back to the tail lights  I don’t know how but i do know what i have to do .. HAVE FUN  why do i like working on this thing “DixieCup” ?????? better than TV I guess Dan

Thanks go to all my “Dads” out here.  I’ve dreamed about the MG line since long before I could drive, but never mastered enough mechanical skills to feel comfortable with a real MG and all its historical breakdowns.  I’ve also build a bunch of model roadster and hot rod kits when I was a kid, never thinking that I would own a real one some d…[Read more]

Alan:

I emailed Alan. Will advise.BTW, that 283 is going to scream just the way it is, and the automatic will probably be just the ticket–both for foot room and shifting ease. Old Buzz is right: leave it alone for the foreseeable. And hang on.I like building them in my mind….

The only time I’ve had a problem like that it turned out to be the steering damper. A fairly easy fix.

mrlmd;
now on each side of that (grub)screw,is there any evidence of a weld.If there is your beam has been cut and turned.The area on each side should be smooth.However the tube could have been cut at any point between the main towers.Check it over real close a factory weld will be clean smooth and small,and look almost continuous.Hope this…[Read more]

That valve is designed to ensure a positive cut-off when you turn the ignition switch to off. In the Detroit cars I think it’s called the anti-deiseling switch. A Ralph Nader idea I beleive but couldn’t swear to it. The valve is spring loaded to the closed position. In our VW based TDs, if your engine doesn’t start, you turn your key on a…[Read more]

So THAT’s what that is!No, that’s not the part that came loose–mine’s a choke–up higher and it’s bigger–like the one you have above your arrow. But I ALSO have one of those little barrel-shaped doohickies wired to the plus side of the distrib & was wondering what the heck it was. Mine’s on the opposite side of the carb but looks the same…[Read more]

You do have a steering damper installed, don’t you? Is there a flat spot when you change direction? There should be no change in resistance.   

I thought that. too bad.

Yes, the screw you see just holds the leaves in place.

OK, I’ve spent a few hours on the internet and now I see how that adjustable beam works, basically by rotating the torsion bar leaves inside the beam. That seems like an awful lot of work and a little expense to do, or go for a greater expense and buy one already made.My beam, which I assume is stock, has a screw midpoint in the upper and lower…[Read more]