Now now Mark. There have been some sunny weekends over the years. But you’re right, more often than not it’s been rainy, cold or both.The hotel cost is pure supply and demand. But the Ramada Limited rate wasn’t that bad this year. The group rate with Speedsters-Online was $119. Paying about the same at HoJo’s for the Mopar show in July. Enjoy the…[Read more]

Glad you guys had a good time…even if it was enduring the Speedster snobs. Hey…those cars are VW’s…not Porsches!!!
Even real TD’s (and every other British sports car) leaked like sieves, so I guess our TD’s are special if they don’t leak.
I think the show was 17 or 18 years old the last time I attended and it had rained every year except…[Read more]

I had a good time as well, but the weather was rough – only drive we had was on Thursday night to the Caddy Shack before Paul got there.
I was directed to the back of the bus so to speak as they did not want the TD in the Speedster pictures as we drove to dinner – I do have a drive video of that if I can figure how to edit and post.
It was fun…[Read more]

Dale and I added a touch of British elegance to the Speedster gathering.
 
My Friday drive was rain for 175 miles and took almost an hour longer than my usual. But…my Classic Roadsters Duchess kept me warm and dry the entire trip. Even the trunk was dry. It’s just not as much fun driving around with the top up and curtains but being warm and…[Read more]

OK Dale and Paul…we need to hear the soggy saga of Carlisle 2008…post us the poop on your weekend!

Look like it’s “Carlisle as usual” again this year. I won’t say the “R” word, but the weather radar is dark green and the weekend forecast says it’ll stay that way.
When the NJRC used to make this a yearly club attended “event”, it was wet every year but 1 of the 8 years in a row that I attended. In fact, it had been wet every year but the first…[Read more]

Dale & Paul…just wanted to wish you guys a good time in Carlisle this weekend. Hopefully the weather will hold out for you.
If you want to catch a good Friday night show, go to the Williams Grove Speedway and watch some of the country’s fastest Winged Sprint Cars. These guys used to clean the clock of some of the World of Outlaws when their show…[Read more]

Hello. I am new to the forum and just beginning my research into owning one of these fun rides. I live in southcentral VA. and would like to begin looking at a couple different ones. M Watson (I will give you a call later this week to the # listed above), MG da and Grandmommy, are you still interested in selling yours. If you have pictures you can…[Read more]

Evening willie2,
I’m on the same time zone as Houston I am located in north Texas between Fort Worth and Dallas. Anytime after 5:00pm “Dallas” time should be great.
Bill

Mr Bill, What part of TX are you in?  Let me know what time to call.  I know when I’m in Houston it’s an hour later here than there.  I would have to agree that there is something shady with the ball joints or install job if your spindles are binding with no tie rods hooked up.  Even if your control arms were out of index again you should not get…[Read more]

Evening willie2,
The spindles actually are tight when you try to move them with the tie rods disconnected. That is why I was wondering if the angle of the control arms was critical.
Here is my cell phone number but I will be occupied until Monday afternoon. 817 228 0305
I live in Texas so I am on CDL time.
I will try to have the car jacked up…[Read more]

They won’t necessarily hang at the same exact angle, but they should be close.  That’s why I said it sounded like you had one the upper indexed 90* out on your first assembly, and it’s easy to do. 
How hard are the spindles to move back and forth with the tie rods disconnected?  Also, if your have your steering boxrotated on the beam too high or…[Read more]

I keep fighting the stiff steering problem. I have the “German” made ball joints installed and a new steering box. With the tie rods disconnected nothing in the steering to that point is binding. The shop that pressed the ball joints in say they are indexed correctly.
My question now is what is the relation between the upper and lower control…[Read more]

Mr Bill, It sounded to me like you had the top set of springs out of index a quarter turn.  If I were to venture a guess I would have told you to take your upper control arms off and index your springs around then reinstall the control arms.  Your upper and lower spring packs were fighting each other.  Sounds like you have everything put back to…[Read more]

Some of you may find that you will need to buy shocks for a lowered front beam.  Lowered or raised front beams whether balljoint or kingpin style can be bought through a number of mail order houses or just about any dune buggy shop.  Cofap has been a name that has been around aftermarket vw stuff for a long, long time.  One of the suggestions in…[Read more]

Well that answers that I suppose.  For the record though, I have my own machine shop and do fabricating and welding as well.  I have scratch-built frames for tubbed street rods and the like so I wasn’t really worried about that part.  I also have pretty good working knowledge of vw’s from building 6 rail buggys over the years.  Having no know…[Read more]

As a current owner of a Ford based TD, and the previous owner of 4 VWs, my 2cents agrees with PinkMG. You say the frame is “no problem”, but realize that not only would it be a complete frame from stem to stern,  but the body would have to be widened as well as lengthened due to  the need to change the running gear to front engine/rear drive. U…[Read more]

I’ve built both a VW and a Ford based CMC (FiberFab) TD kit. and they bodies are TOTALLY DIFFERENT. The amount of work involved doing what you describe is not worth the effort (my opinion). 
First, the bodies are not even the same size. The VW TD body is smaller and the fenders are different (narrower). Their wheelbases are not the same, the Ford…[Read more]

Hi again,
I’m pretty sure it was the Fibrefab, but will know more this Friday.  I was there when it was all delivered, and it was already stripped down, so we started with a frame and he went along from there. 
He only got as far as the shocks and then he stopped because he thought it would be too stiff.
I will definitely take/post pictures of t…[Read more]

Congratulations on the start of your build.
The frame of your TD is made from mild steel and is designed to accept the Chevette/Pontiac T-1000 suspension components, drive train and accept the TD replica body. Chevette/Pontiac T-1000 did not have frames, they were unibody.
How far along did you ever get on this project? Are you sure it’s a CMC (…[Read more]