It will make a difference in stiffness, a little firmer dampening. A good radial tire with a higher aspect ratio will make it ride less harsh too. Say a 75 or 80 series versus a 70 or 60 series sidewall height. Correct tire pressure for the new weight distribution will also help the ride. You’ll have to experiment with that. I started with 18 lbs…[Read more]

Hello to all,  I am car poor right now.. I have two MG replicas and my late brother’s original 64 Corvair.  Anyway, I need to sell one or even both of the MG replicas.. both are VW based and are tagged, clear titled, drivable, and loads of fun!  The green one has a header which makes it sound really like it’s BAAAAAD!   The yellow one has regu…[Read more]

Thanks to both of you for the information.
The Monroe p/n 31538 appears to be the correct length (I left the measurements with the parts supplier so I will need to remeasure) but it is a “gas” and not an “oil” filled shock.
How much of a difference in the ride will this make?
Bill

JC Whitney probably just drop ships and really has no “techs” that would measure a shock for you. Check out http://www.rockauto.com Search for Monroe p/n 31538 and click on More Info. It gives the specs of the shock. I order from Rock Auto all the time. They are repuatable and quick.
These VW front suspension (beams with trailing arms) are pretty…[Read more]

The caster shims go between the beam and the frame head.They will tilt the beam ahead or back,depending on where you put them,top or bottom.The ball joint eccentric is for camber,or top of tire tipout as looked at from the front of the car.I never really thought of it,but that will affect caster,but it must not be enough to bother the handling.The…[Read more]

I have also condsiered waiting and if it does rub a hole, glue and “acorn” nut on top for decoration.
No I have not driven the car yet. One thing I the original shocks are about 1 1/2″ shorter than what I am finding at the local supply parts supplier. They have kept my measurments and are trying to locate a workable shock. I sent J.C. Whitney an…[Read more]

Sure it does…or even a hole in the fiberglass would suffice. You could even get “exotic” and cut a hole in the fiberglass and then mold a “bump” over it with some resin and glass cloth.
Have you driven it with the suspension softened?
Are both ride height adjusters center snub bolts parallel to each other?
What shocks do you have up front? Did…[Read more]

Evening,
Well I have the adjustable front axle beam in and it does look good.
On question/comment: It appears the locater spots for the steering box has turned it slightly, now the large adjusting screw in the top of the steering box comes in contact with the filler panel just below the grille. Tomorrow I will go and pick up a couple of SS…[Read more]

Yes sir that is correct. It is on a 1973 chassis.
I don’t guess it should but it blows my mind on how little maintenance work was performed on this car. They kept the body shinny.

So, your car is based on a ’68 and up Beetle donor, has a ball joint front end and IRS rear suspension.
If the valve location is on the outer edge (as normally found on most rims) you should have no problems using disc or drum front and/or rear brakes.

I was not real happy with the finish either, but thanks to N.A.F.T.A., that’s all we get in the aftermarket now.
On the VW based MGTD replica, these parts show. So they look nicer with a good finish.

You are correct. I have the 4 bolt pattern.
I will be purchasing them from a local and maybe they will have information on the newer wheels. I will bring this to their attention.
Thanks again,
Bill

Thank you for your information.
I could not believe the “so called” paint that was on the new axle. I have sanded and applied primer and two coats of paint.
Bill

I was going to replace “one” of mine and just gave up trying to find a match and boutgh 4 new ones…post a photo and someone may have one around …or it may match one of the three i had left..
 
Paul W

The way Ferdinand Porsche designed these, there is no need to do what you describe.
Just use the four wide, flat torsion leaves. There is enought threads on the snub nuts in the adjuster and the trailing arms to tighten it all back up.
Remember this design was well thought out to be for many applications that required different spring rates. The…[Read more]

By the center of rim I mean that the valve hole is placed equally between the outer and inner beads of the rim.
In other words, if you stood the rim up so it would roll, turned the thing sideways so that you are looking at the inner part of the rim (you’d have the tire tread pointed squarely at your face), the valve hole is dead center between…[Read more]

No wonder I lost your message I was looking in the wrong subject.
“If the valve is located centered on the rim, they won’t work with disc brakes”. 
I am puzzled by this statement. Are you indicating the valve stem is located between the spokes and not on the outer rim like other car wheels?
Please let me know about the steering wheel.
Also I p…[Read more]

If the valve is located centered on the rim, they won’t work with disc brakes. 
I lost your message.
This statement puzzles me. Are you indicating the valve stem is located between the spokes and not on the outer rim as it is on most car wheels?
Also I had posted a message to you concering the rear suspension. When you have time please read t…[Read more]

Almost forgot…I may have that steering wheel I removed. I’ll look in the basement and see if I save it. You are welcome to it if I have it. It’s the same one you have. Keep you posted.

Bill, I used a set of those Empi 8 spokes on the first Pink MG, now Angelica. I powder coated them beige to match the main body.
Be careful of the valve location on these rims. When I swapped my brakes over to disc brakes, the tire valve interferred with the caliper and I could not use the rims. I ended up getting a set of the 10 spoke VW rims (…[Read more]