Oh, I forgot to ask.  If I get new tires, I might get new updated rims, remove adapter for VW wheels, and use the Chevette bolt pattern (4×100).  Any info on the correct offset (and ideas for rims, I believe Honda and many others fit).

My camber changes a lot between an empty car and with two people in car.  I know some change is possible, but mine seems to be more than normal.  Do others have this issue?  Front end is too high and I was thinking of shorter springs.  This extra stiffness might help.  I want to solve this before I get into caster/camber changes.  Thanks.

3-5 degrees positive caster helps highway tracking if

tires are less than 6 years old

not over-inflated

toe-in is right

ball joints, steering knuckles, etc are all good (i.e. no play in them, but move freely under load)

Steering damper is good.

In your case I’d begin with tires. As much as we hate t6o throw out tires with good tread, 8 years…[Read more]

I agree with all of the above.  I think that you are possibly needing to adjust the castor (caster) angle so that it is slightly positive.  Castor is what gives the car directional stability.  Excessive Castor may make it slightly harder to turn the wheel and park but that does not seem to be your problem.  Also, excessive tire pressure may giv…[Read more]

Thanks.  Agree on toe-in.  Tires are over 8 years, I think based on prior owner comments.  So I need to replace them.  Would the negative camber have any bearing at all?

you need a little toe-in or the car will wander when going straight. I had that problem years ago in a dodge put it on the rack & dialed in a hair more toe problem solved

Before tearing apart the steering, are your tires more than, say, 8 years old?  Even if they look fine internal tread separation will cause the symptoms you describe.  Been there.

😳

Yes, very helpful.

Thank you

OK, finally, I got this picture to appear. (Took a half hour).

This cover is currently removed as the roll cage is still installed. Hillclimb Aug 19-20. I use large body clips that accept 5/16″ bolts. The hat simply bolts fast.

You’ll see along the top edge are the mounting holes for bolting the cover to the body tub. These can only be reached…[Read more]

OK I’m sorry I didn’t say it wasn’t a vw kit, I assumed everyone would know since it is posted in the Ford/Chevy forum. Could someone post a photo of how they have attached that and it still be removable and strong enough to hold that heavy tire and wheel. I don’t see anything by looking up from underneath to fasten it to. I’m thinking using 4…[Read more]

Also, be sure to check those vaccume tips. If the rubber covers are cracked even slightly she won’t idle well. There is a small disk that sits just under the bowl, in the front of the carb. I’ve had it pop out a few times and kills the engine immediately.

Do NOT glass that in. You need to remove the hat to not only access the fuel sender and filler neck, but it’s the only access to the bolts that hold the rear cover to the body tub on that top edge. Once you put the tire on that hat, what’s behind it is hardly visible.

You want it to be removal to access the gas tank and gas gauge sender.  If you glass it in it will be a mistake.