November 26, 2010 at 9:25 pm #233248
Got my engine stripped down and out. Before removing I had made my mind up that I was picking up a 1776 long block and mount my 40 duals on it. Chrome Tin and a larger oil sump(mid america has a kit to increase cap by 1 1/2 quarts. Bottom line is the &%@#$ dual port posts are too wide. Could you guys measure your engine holes side to side and your trunk or engine cover side to side. At this point I think my best move is a 1641 and looking at a progressive carb or staying with a 34 and doing another years of research. we experimented with some high heat paint by alvin at the race shop this summer that I was thinking of using on tin in place of Chrome. also my altenater has 3 posts on it the center one has 3 clips and this is confusing me. with all that said, all is well in sunny vermont and I hope to have this done late january for another fun winter drive. We dont winterize in vermont we ride.November 27, 2010 at 9:35 am #243048edward ericsonParticipant
I’m still as new to this as you are, Rich, and I wonder what you mean by “dual port posts.”
You’re talking about the mounts for the carbs? The carbs fit on them but the whole engine is then too wide to fit under your engine cover?
Maybe you could post a photo of what you’re looking at. Some of the real mechanics here can school us both.November 27, 2010 at 10:07 am #243049newkitmanParticipant
If you are referring to the intake manifolds tha fit between the carbs and the cylinder head, there are two types. A long maniold (about 8 Inches tall) ans a short manifold (about 5 inches tall). The longer ones ange up and outboard from the cylinder head. The shorter one like I have start outboard and then curve upwards. I’ll post a pic of my engine in my photo album.
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackNovember 27, 2010 at 5:11 pm #243050
This is where I’m at today.November 27, 2010 at 6:34 pm #243051edward ericsonParticipant
Lower photo looks to be the money shot, but I can’t make out the details.November 27, 2010 at 6:45 pm #243052
no i already pulled the motor i’ll take a picture of the intake manifolds tommorrow but the old block is sitting there waiting for a good offer. looks like a push rod damaged, a spark plug popped, and a head gasket fried. other than that I found a hole in the eghaust Manifold tube. a leak in the oil cooler. numerous missing bolts and alot that was just finger tight. Long block it is.November 28, 2010 at 3:55 pm #243053
Carbs on manifolds are considerably wider that cutout and it even tapers in towards the top.November 29, 2010 at 2:40 pm #243054Mark HendricksonParticipant
VW have no head gaskets, so I doubt if you have a blown one.
Are those Dual Kadrons? If so, get rid of the steel intakes and invest in a set of aluminum one’s from EMPI or Bugpack. The SCAT linkage is way better too.
I had no problems with clearance on my 1776 in the VW based first Pink MG. The air cleaners were a little tight, but “clocked” properly, they cleared.
I’d also recommend not using the Chrome Tin. It’s all Chinese junk (not the boat). It not only rusts, but it’s ill fittting and not made properly for cooling. Get your OEM VW tin powder coated or chromed.December 4, 2010 at 5:55 pm #243055
Okay so I guess I’m going to start from the inside out and build a motor. I know nothing of this but thought it was time to learn. It can’t be that much different than rebuilding an old Ford or chevy. It looks like you go to GEX or Mid america and get a Short Block and go from there. Any thoughts or suggestions.February 11, 2011 at 12:15 pm #243056chuck schmitParticipant
The dual carbs on my 1600 DP fit in my MIGI OK. I have the aluminum manifolds which seem to go almost straight up and not curve out like yours. I’ll take some photos if you like?
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