fuel tank outlet and hose

[Bob]

Don’t know about anybody else but if I were to build these cars I would have made sure to use all the parts for a gas tank to be sure stuff wasn’t going to get into the fuel line.

Incredibly (to me anyway) I didn’t find the in-tank filter when I replaced the leaking fuel sender gasket. Maybe this is’nt of much concern to some people since a filter usually– or always– exists at the engine compartment or at least outside the tank at the outlet.

Actual reason for posting about this is more to do with the trouble I encountered during my install of the in-tank brass filter.

Most importantly, I found the tank next to impossible to remove (and in my case I didn’t). It was as if the tank was installed prior enclosing the front sides (false front engine panels). Not to mention it was also glued in by the carpeted interior.

The narrowing of those panels toward the front of the tank kept me from being able to simply lift it out, once unbolted; and one in the middle back refused to just unscrew so had to pull up forcibly while unscrewing.

Even with all bolts out and glued carpet peeled away I still couldn’t push the tank back enough to clear the front corners for the inward curving tops of the side panels.

Anyway… so with tank only an inch upward I managed to get the old outlet pipe off using a 22mm open-end wrench (slowly!).

Had a towel to catch whatever remaining fuel spilled out, having successfully siphoned 1 1/2 gallons out previously. Very little remained in the tank.

And then the portal of HE-double toothpicks opened up and swallowed the outlet hose when I made a terrible mistake, moved the towel out of the way and it was all that was holding that hose up out of the hole. Lucky for me I had both a grabber/pickup tool and inspection camera (endoscope, borescope) or I’d have been lost– like the hose! Because when I looked under the car for access, well heck, it’s all sealed up underneath there.

Really wanted to remove the tank and flush it out properly since some rust and sediment was in there, but it doesn’t look too severe after all, once I could see it empty of all gas.

What did look terrible was the outlet elbow pipe. Corroded so much it had a pin hole in it, and overloaded with debris. Just had to show a picture.

Hope someone reading here will save themselves some trouble by not letting that fuel hose drop out of reach like I did, and will be aware of the potential issue with pulling a tank out if never done before. At the least give your tank a look for the filter and crud that might be there regardless of filter or not.

Immediate left of the corroded outlet pipe seems to be a foil piece from a bottle of fuel cleaner or similar thing, ironically, and could have easily clogged the outlet all by itself. Other bits are probably paint, the remainder is rust. Believe me when I say I didn’t pack it all in there like that, exactly how it was after pulling it off the tank.

And here’s the outlet itself, and hose that jumped into its hole not once but twice! Held here by the grabber tool clinging to the hose clamp. The outlet had something stringy wrapped around it, probably a sealing tape. However, I used only the 2 supplied gaskets/washers when putting the new parts in. BTW, reminds me, that filter screen is a rather long tube and wouldn’t go in without bending it in a couple places and squeezing it through the apparently same-sized opening. Fold, push, pinch, push, fold, push, pinch… and in!

[Rich Kallenberger]

Yes, working on the gas tank is a pain. I have found that it helps a lot to loosen the two bolts holding the hood sides on, allowing them to be pulled away from the tank an inch or so (FF). Also, after several unanticipated removals I added a small shutoff valve and threaded fitting to the hose comming from the tank so it was no longer necessary to completly drain the tank when disconnecting the hose.
I don’t know how important the VW filter in the tank is if you can add an inline filter ahead of the fuel pump in a more accessable location. Maybe others have input on that.

[newkitman]

I too added a shutoff valve to the fuel hose from the tank. Then just before the fuel tube goes into the tunnel, I added a fuel filter mounted with a clamp. Accessible from the right front wheel well.

Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

[Dale Schumacher]

Did the same thing.
Good to stop theft as well.

[Bill Gould]

I considered having my original tank pulled and rehabbed, but in the end just had it replaced with a 10-gallon JAZ fuel cell. It fit fine and has given me no trouble in 7 years. Looks like this:

1981 Lafer TI
1600 cc Type 1 engine

[edward ericson]

That looks great, Bill. Where is that mounted in your car?

[Bill Gould]

It sits up front, mounted fore-and-aft on the right side. Secured with two aluminum straps and grounded. When full, its weight helps offset mine (ahem) when I’m behind the wheel.

1981 Lafer TI
1600 cc Type 1 engine

[Bob]

The replacement outlet elbow has a flare and I can’t get the old braided hose to seal. In fact, it has small internal cracks I found after I cut the end off to try and start fresh.

I like the idea of the shut-off. I was already considering adding inline filter outside the tank because I was thinking I need a filter there to go along with the one at the engine. Although now with the brass mesh in-tank filter it might be too redundant. A shut-off would really help if I can get the old hose to seal onto it better than that flared elbow. New fuel line should be okay with that, otherwise something is wrong with the screw clamp.

The fuel lines were supposedly replaced 4 1/2 years ago, have receipt that was given to me. Now I’m wondering how to replace those, if I can, but the floor pan effectively prevents access from underneath and I don’t see a way to get at it from above or front where battery is at. Maybe if tank were removed, then support for it where that fuel line hole goes down…?

Had me wondering is I could pull the line out from back of car with new one attached, but there’s that metal tube to deal with and I don’t know what angles, holes or attachment points are involved. Did see anything about all that after a quick search.

A whole lot I don’t know about these cars. I didn’t see a way to loosen the bolts to side body panels (false engine bay), although 3 round bolt heads are up and down the widest end (back) and others at narrow end (front). Thanks for the suggestion anyhow, guessing there must be a way if I look at it enough.

Fuel cell looks good. I was thinking of buying same tank I have now, of course it would need the filler neck chopped and welded to fit. The current tank weld on that neck looks like I did it, not good! I only tried welding decades ago and never accomplished anything.

[Paul Mossberg]

I lot of guys run a new steel fuel line thrugh the passenger compartment.

Or under the floor pan, just make sure it is tucked up out of the way of road debris.

 

Even if th rubber lines were replaced 4 years ago, if you see dryness and/or cracking…that decision is easy. Replace them again! 😉

 

As far as “pulling out the old line,” I doubt it. The fuel line is atttached inside the center tunnel..

I need to search for it, but somewhere here, I’ve posted great cutaway pics of the VW tunnel. Stay tuned for the link….

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Paul Mossberg]

Well, that was easy.

 

A lot of the discussion in this thread from the Samba deals with the shift rod. But the pictures and graphics give you a great look inside the VW tunnel:

 

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=432049

 

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Paul Mossberg]

Here’s another discussion re gas line routing:

 

https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/gas-line-routing-2/#post-260886

 

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Paul Mossberg]

And more close up pics of the tunnel cutaway here:

 

https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/shifter-problems-2/#post-257767

 

PMOSSBERG2015-03-26 09:24:25

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[edward ericson]

Just saying: with the Suby swap, FI multiline setup, I ran the hard fuel lines through the passenger compartment, outside the tunnel. On the donor Legacy they were down under the drivers side door sill, inside the passenger compartment as well.

[Bob]

Thanks guys!

So that’s what the “tunnel” is! Thought it was just an area under there like most rear wheel drive cars for the drive shaft.

Talked to my dad’s neighbor’s kid about their 1970 VW Beetle, which I didn’t know about until they asked what my MGTDr is. That VW was garaged for years with engine removed and I guess since he’s getting to be of driving age he plans to rebuild the engine and restore the Bug. He was saying it would probably float if you put it in water because of those floor pans.

Going to be reading, looking over the pictures and find out what I can do about the fuel line once I give my car a good look-see inside and out.

Realizing so little I know, the more I need to learn. Haven’t worked mechanically with cars like this in 3 decades. Hadn’t thought fuel lines could be beneath the door sills!

[billnparts]

VW had a TV commercial showing a bug floating.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[Paul Mossberg]

1972

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qB0lb401ZU

 

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Rich Kallenberger]

Re: loosening side panel screws.
Mine (FF) has only two bolts per side where the panel meets the firewall cowl. They are machine screws and the nuts are under the sidewall carpet and/or cardboard. Not easy to work with but do-able. Maybe reversing them and using acorn nuts on the outside would be better.

[Bob]

Seem to remember that commercial, even though I was only 13 years old. Splashing into water is very memorable and the guy in it afterward floating there. Interesting that he chose to do that himself, I would too, or want to be the stunt man.

I was thinking the bolts are a kind of catch-22, would need the gas tank removed to get at them, and need the bolts out first. Still haven’t looked at it to be sure, but the battery holder and shallow floor inside there doesn’t show visible access unless I were to rip out the glued in carpet. I’m hoping it doesn’t come to that, since I think a short section of new fuel line and shut-off valve (and filter) might be all it needs to stop the leaking. Will know eventually.

[Peter C. King]

That ad spawned a number of similar feats. Someone bolted an extended prop onto the fan pulley, shot silicon into the small gaps and drove/sailed from Sicily to the Italian mainland. The Italian Navy was not amused as it crossed the shipping lanes. 

[Author]

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