- This topic has 340 replies, 20 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 3 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
I feel your pain Ed. Just hang in there. You’ll….git er done!
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackShift rod got fixed. I installed it and can dry-shift all four gears and reverse (I think).
Also added some copper to my oil fill. I think that’s licked too.So, progress.Way to go, Ed.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Great job Ed. Knew you could do it. Keep up the exemplary work.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack47 days to Carlisle….
Plenty o’ time!
Congrats on the progress Ed!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
if I weren’t stuck indoors doing taxes and work . . .
Anyway. Checked on the epoxy this a.m. & it looks like it’ll hold well enough for now.
Man, all that spaghetti. Have you considered becoming a Pastafarian?
If the wires are all that’s left, you’re almost done. Good going.????
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Actually, I have been a pastafarian for many years. I was Touched by His Noodly Appendage.
So here is what’s left to do:1. get the wire harness cut out and packed off to Shiels. (Should have that done today)2. find and buy a suitable fuel pump.3. salvage fuel lines from the Soob (or buy them). Fit them where they need to go (I think passenger channel). Get righteous connectors/clamps etc for soft lines. (Anyone with advice on this? Chime in.)4. Mock up coolant lines using PVC. Need to cut holes in the floor pan for this, also an access port under the front fender. (I will explain all in a future post)5. Finish radiator and fan mods, plus mounts for same, and fan shroud, and mounts for that.6. Weld up holes in tunnel7. fill trans with oil, adjust clutch cable to the new trans position.8. reinstall engine, mock-up/figure out air intake puzzle. (I may need to buy & install some different stuff to reorient the throttle body, etc.)9. make/buy throttle cable & linkage. Install same so throttle body works right.10. set up coolant lines from engine to hard lines under chassis. Also make sure oil filler is (finally) right.11. get muffler guy to make coolant lines, exhaust, and do final welds on front trans mount.12. Set up coolant system with bleeder(s). Rig oil and temp gauges. Install fuel lines to engine.13. Pay Shiels. Install wiring.14. Fill engine with oil. Fill radiator & etc.15. modify gas tank for fuel injection & new fuel pump. Install gas tank; connect fuel lines to that.16. Test start.17. Fix all the stuff that’s wrong on startup. Burp coolant system. Top off.18. Tuck in wires; reassemble interior.19. Shakedown drive.20. Fix whatever is still wrong.21. (optional) Install disk brakes in front, mod suspension….I don’t see this happening in fewer than six weekends. I’d love to take a week off of work to get more done, but that’s probably not going to be possible. So it looks like a best-case scenario for this job’s completion is late May–two weeks post Carlisle.My list is lots shorter, finished making tow bar today. Ed, how do you get pictures to post? It’s been a few months since I could get one on here.
Same as always, Montie. Start with the “post reply” button at the top of the thread, click the tree icon and upload the picture–making sure the thing you’re uploading is less than 500mb.
Got my wires boxed up and ready to go to Shiels for sorting and testing. He’s a hell of a nice guy, if you ever need the service.So there’s one thing down, 19 to go.The last major decisions on this project involve fuel delivery. I’d like y’all to help me think about this.
To recap, the Soob needs 35-lbs of fuel pressure at the injector rail. It’s a three-line return system that terminates in an in-tank fuel pump/swirl pot system in a two-bay tank (with a second internal pump to balance the fuel between each side) that apparently is unique in the automotive kingdom.No one pulls the Suby tank or its internals for use in a VW swap.The elements required are simple. I need1. A fuel pump capable of maintaining the requisite 40-60 psi.2. A system by which excess fuel is returned to the tank and the existing charcoal-can/internal rebreather is plumbed back in.And I also believe I will need3. A swirl tank so that I don’t starve the pump or cylinders under hard cornering during the inevitable auto-x contests.To get all this I’ve narrowed it down to two options.Option 1 costs $440 and is basically a drop-in solution. The Aeromotive 200 would fairly well replicate what the Suby has from the factory, and offer a clean setup with minimal fabrication and hassle. The downsides:a. It is a new product & not well tested, to my knowledgeb. it cost $440. Plus AN fittingsOption 2 costs about $115 and has been the choice of some other swappers. The Bosch 69100 serves in millions of Ford F-150s, vans & etc. And the 1987 Fox fuel expansion tank, though not currently in stock, is a cheap and compact thing that could be plumbed just below the stock fuel tank for gravity feed. If I can’t score one of these I could still make–or have someone make–something at least as good out of a piece of exhaust pipe and some barbed fittings. The downsidesa. backorder or fabrication requiredb. external mounting requires room and may be slightly less safe in the event of a crash.Right now I’m torn. Today I’m pulling the fuel lines from the Suby, getting some cutters, a bender and maybe a flare tool to set the lines up in Bridget. Soon I’ll have to order the final bits. I welcome your sage advice, questions and thoughts about other options.Old Chrysler’s used an inline fuel filter that had a return line.
NAPA number 3054. Sorry, can’t get a photo to post.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Ed. Just for you. A Soob in a 69 Beetle!
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackI believe that’s a four-cam model. Hence the cutouts. Very cool.
Some auto-x attitude.edsnova2014-04-12 22:43:45
More photos of Bug-Paluza 16 at: http://www.fotki.com/Allen1209
Go to 2014 car shows and enjoy!Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackOK, don’t laugh at my fuel system just because I’m using a water bottle as a key component.
If it doesn’t work I’ll have Mike the muffler guy weld me up something manlier.“Coke mule….” That’s hysterical!
I love the creativity and fabrication! Two questions about the swirl tank.I know fuel injection systems get their fuel at fairly high pressures. Will your water bottle swirl tank be under pressure? If so (and I’m sure you thought of this), you shoudl pressure test the bottle.Second, is the plastic cap on the water bottle resistant to gasoline? Same question for whatever material is used in the gasket on the cap.This is awesome work Ed!Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Thanks, Paul. To your questions:
1. No. (That’s why it’s vented back to the air space at the top of the fuel tank, which is in-turn vented to the atmosphere.2. Don’t know. I suppose it would have been smarter to test the cap (and 0-ring) before doing this fab, but I was having too much fun chuckling to myself about the project. So That test comes next. I’ll fill it up this a.m. and let it sit for a week like that over an oil change pan.3. also, re pressure: I plan to fill it full and seal it tight. I’ll leave it where it will get a little warm in order to simulate what sometimes happens in a regular gas tank.I’m ready for it to not work & will report back either way.Now the hard part of arranging the parts in the box so the lines run as straight as possible. I hope to get that all squared away during evening sessions this week. Wish me the luck.Great work and ideas whether it works or not.
If it works, you created a market!I’m putting all my stainless/uninsulated water bottles up on ebay as fuel tank and radiator overflow bottles!Retirement…here I come! 😎 Or not. 🙁Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Fire extinguisher, right?
Mine’s holding up OK so far. Had some weeping past the bolts I used to plug the ends of the hoses. Turns out bolts have threads.
Anyway, seems a little gas and swelling has put a stop to that. No leaks at or near the epoxy joints. No sign of deterioration of the plastic.
Ed,
Ethanol scares me with regard to compatibility with other materials, especially plastics. It does its damage in very insidious ways and takes time to spring its dangerous leaks. I have direct personal experience. (An older Boston Whaler onboard fuel tanks were fiberglass. Plus I once converted a diesel VW to gas. Both resulted in “on the road” leaks with no hints beforehand.) I wish the best with your experiment.Should you decide that you want to go a different direction, rather than calling Mike (the Muffler Guy), you might want to use large diameter copper pipe with copper caps and keep it a safe DIY project. Drill and tap the caps and even solder the fittings and of course, the caps for extra security.The big pipe that I am talking about would have to be purchased from a plumbing supply place, not Lowes or Home Depot.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.