I’ve done loads of these on race and street cars.
1) Puller (engine side) is best. Check the rotation before you install it, most impellers can be turned for “pusher” or “puller”. Just hook it to a battery + to +, – to – and test it before you install it.
2) No, you don’t need your “mechanical” fan anymore. This is good.
3) For the street, an electric fan should be thermostatically controlled and many companies market this set up…Derale, Flex-a-Lite, Painless, etc. for one. Check out SummitRacing, Jeg’s, etc. Note: it can also be manually switched, but you’ll spend your time watching the coolant temp gauge.
4) Wire the fan’s power to a relay mounted as close to the fan as possible. (also Painless, Ron Francis, etc.) Note: If you wire it to the battery, it will run after the car shuts off until the thermostat shuts it down. If you wire it to and “Ignition ON” source, this will not happen when you turn off the car.
5) A shrouded fan works most efficiently.
6) You may need to get an alternator shop to modify your alternator for more amps output. I think the Chevette was less than 45 amps, but it may have been 55 amps. Best to have at least 60 amps or more. A larger battery will help too.
7) You will find that the fan will not run much or for long periods of time while cruising 45 mph or more.
If I forgot something, someone will chime in
I have an new-in-the-bag Flex-a-Lite adjustable thermostatic control left over from installing an electric fan in my Mustang Road Racer. I wired the fan manually. PM me your address and it’s yours for the USPS Priority Mail flat rate shipping.
Hope this helped, Mark
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