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Sorry guys I’m a little late.Been busy with home repairs
Anyhow.do a search for chevy powered MG TD/you will find the link to this car
Short is it was an old road coase racerI gotta chime in here. the only thing mustang 2 aftermarket kits that is mustang 2 is the design.A 10 inch dics brake should give plenty of stopping power even a 9 inch for that matter.I see nothing wrong with a chevette front end,same weight car as a mustang 2.Guys have been dumping small block of 1 type or another into chevettes,vegas,pintos,and mustang 2’s for years and none of them did anything with the brakes.
MG’s isue is in wrong master and brake proporsioning.If you been here long enough you should know he has had this promblem for some time.Changing the front end to a mustaang 2 is not going to solve the problem.I have a hunch the the promblem is-the pivot point for the master push rod is wrong.Its not getting the correct leverage.greg I would be interested in parts,if he’s willing to part out or if he has spare parts.I am looking for 65 and up MGB or MGB GT front disc spindles with everything attached.
Here’s the why a 283.
I have 2 virgin low mileage 283’s sitting here.The smaller bore,and short stroke take a lot less fuel to feed it.And gas here is holding at $4 a gallon.A stock powerpack 283 with a 2bbl carb has 195 ponies.Should be plenty to move a 1700 pound car.A 327 is just a short stroked 350.I have a 350 4 bolt main sitting here.If I real had enough cash to work with I would have that built to a 302.312 with an overbore.Ok my 2 cents.
Unless you are planning on using a gel cell sealed battery,I would not put one in the passenger compartment.As an acid battery charges if gives off toxic fumes.Find a place under the hood.Or go with a gel cell sealed.Not sure what your DOT laws are,but watch yourself.If you add a saftey item you may be required to use it.If it didn’t have shoulder belts/harness from the factory I wouln’t bother.
And don’t bother to ask a law enforcement official on the law.They all have the same answer,DUH I don’t know,depends on the persons mood at the time.
Drive like your on a motorcyle and you will be fine.Watch the traffic,turn off the cell,and ALWAYS look ahead for an escape route,And pay attention to how close the car behind you is,and you will be fine.The hardest part was finding the correct angles and mesurements for all the wood.Plenty of pics on the net of rebuilding a “TUB” but no dimentions.I did finally come across someone that did post this needed info with his pics.
I have most of the wood in place,Have to fit and secure two pieces for the rear(hopfully today)then it’s sanding time to fit the panels.
Update;
Got the whole mess home.Been working on it as time allows.Pretty much a puzzle of sorts,as Someone else took the car apart.Making some progess with getting all the wood skeleton built for the body sheet metal.Plans are chevy 283 with an auto tranny,(wives idea,go figure).Transmission fluild also works well.Hold at a higher RPM and pour slowly down the carb.Best recomended on an old back country road as it will produce alot of smoke.
I also recall reading where the 55 chevys burned oil off the transport truck,the fix was pouring boraxo cleanser down the carb while running at a higher rpm.This provided enough abrasive to sand and reseat the rings and no more oil burning.Bill
If you consider selling the fender lamps you removed,I would be interested,depending on price?Paul;
Good to here its up and running again.I will be the first to say new parts can go bad.A new pertronics unit on mine with only 20 miles on it.Put the points back in and no issues in 1700 milesI just browsed though the chevette link.
don’t care to waste my time.If I can’t sell to a member here on the site,I will keep it go through it have it running on a stand,then the price goes up.I have $200 in it and $200 takes it.Sorry ray no offersI guess I should clarify.I have a fiberfab,and an original grill shell is larger,both in hieght,and width.I would almost think that due to patten laws some changes in dimentions would have to be made on a copy.
Not to burst your bubble.But I think they are different in size.I have an original as well as the one on my replica.The original will fit over the replica.
On a side note all it takes is a pin hole on the pump diaphram,or a crack from dry age.CHECK THE OIL what fuel isn’t going to the carbs has got to be going some place.
Well I am in Manitowoc Wisconsin.
The frame and its dissasembled susspention (working on rebuilding) and engine are in my garage.The rest of the car is in the Appleton area just have not had the time to go pick it up.The trick is
When you have the ball joint under pressure with the tool; tap-don’t beet the outer area of the arm and squirt a little penatrating oil.This has always worked for me even on very stuborn joints.If you have a bench vise clamp the ball joint tool in the vise works even better,provided the trailing arm has been removed from the car.You did remove the C clip that holds the ball joint?rockyx if I read your drawing corectly you have 2 hot leads going to the ampmeter.you show the amp ground going to the positive on the battery,run it to ground see what happens.
rockyx;
depending on the type of use box already insalled.A good upgrade is to one with the common blade fuse found in cars today.Everybody sells blade fuses,even walgreens.I picked up 2 from o’riellys for about $6 each,I think they were a 6 fuse box, and the nice thing is they hook together and have a dust cover.Nice ride.
I have seen a few go for $6000 on the bay.Looks real close to the real thing,except for the 4 lug wheels and the headlight brackets.I would Think you could get $6000 or better.
