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Sorry it took so long to post the photos. I got sidetracked with the clutch cable replacement process.
As you can see, I had to build up the mounting area. At the bottom (closest to the fender) is a piece of 3/16 Masonite, painted black on both sides. On top of that is a piece of 1/4 inch foam with the LED unit attached on top of that with wood screws. What you can’t see is a piece of 1/8 inch rubber between the chrome housing and the black rubber base, to keep road water from coming in through the fender well. Overall , I am very pleased with the result. From the outside it looks exactly like the stock Lucky taillight, but it’s brighter and more reliable than the bulbs and has the added benefit that it “pulses” when you first apply the brakes, then settles into a steady brake light.
By the way, I don’t claim any honors for “clean” workmanship — it’s all hidden inside the lens.
An update on the LED project for the Little Red Car. Ordered an LED array from Technosatalgia. Cut a piece of masonite to fit inside the base of the Lucky taillight and a piece of rubber sheet to fit behind the Lucky. Painted the masonite black and screwed the LED array onto the face of the masonite. Ran the wires to my system and … had brake and turn signals but no taillights. Called the tech dept and they said, “Oh, you need a controller circuit to make it a three way”. Ordered the controller circuit and got it installed in the system. Voila!!! Bright LED lights in an antique housing. Total cost _ about $100 all in. The brake light “surges” three times when the peddle is depressed and then brcomes a steady brake light. Another feature I like.
So, I’m a happy camper again. Except that I broke the shift cable (it frayed at the peddle fitting) and I am now in my fifth hour trying to fit a new cable, including having to cut down a stock VW cable to fit. The P.O. didn’t cut large enough access holes in the tunnel so I had to start by cutting them larger to get my fingers inside. Now it’s re-install the pedal assembly and hook up the cable. Hope this is the last time I have to do this job.Mike NebenIrvine, CAFound a jag cover on eBay for $19.95 and snatched it quickly. That’s all I need some I’ll bond it to the cover. Thanks for the ideas, guys.
Kent, would these work with “Lucky” taillights? Is the quoted price for a pair or for each? Do you have the dimensions of the retro unit?
Thanks, Mike NebenJust took it out again and I correct my previous post. It’s not excess play, it just seems to “wander” or sway a bit at speeds over 55. I will reduce the front pressure and try it again. There is only about a couple inches of play.
I’ll also check the travel of the shocks more carefully.
Thanks again…. Mike1. Removed 6 short leaves from each tube.
2. 22 lbs pressure in front tires
3. 15″ shocks measured from lower spindle to upper washer. (GR-2)
She seems to track straight and alignment looks good. My issue is more play in the steering wheel than I think is proper. I’m going for a ride now and will try to get more specific when I return.
Btw, there is very little vertical movement in the shocks when I press down the front, perhaps one inch. Is that about right?Took the red roadsters out on the freeway today for the first time. With the front lowered from removing the 6 lower bars it feels a little “squishy”. Would a little extra weight adde To the front compartment help to make it less soft?
Paul, sorry to her about your dad. Another good brother gone to his celestial reward. Sounds like he led a very full life and was the kind of role model that we would all like to see in this frail world.
May the acacia bloom at his grave and may he rest in eternal bliss.
Mike Neben, PM
Update to my previous post. They are not Lucas, they are Dietz headlights. But they’re still dim.
Here’s a photo taken todayPaul, thanks for posting these comparisons. I think I’ve narrowed it down that mine is a CMC. There is a number (822399-6)stamped in the fiberglass. The front body panel is one piece, not split like some I see. The engine cover folds down for access and the bumpers have the hole for a crank.
I am looking to buy a new top (two bow) and would like guidance from the forum. Am I better off going to a local top shop (lots of them here in sunny Orange County CA) or are there online sources that do a good job and are reliable.
So far, your (the Forum) advice has been spot on and I am pleased that I have a safe drivable and fun car.
Thanks, Mike Neben
Irvine CAThanks once again to all you guru’s. I removed the half leaves from both torsion bars yesterday and it immediately dropped the front end 2 inches, which is what I wanted. It wasn’t quite as easy as all of you said it would be, but we did it without incident.
Haven’t driven it since then but I expect it will ride softer and handle better.
This is a great forum and I can’t begin to thank you enough. Here I was, prepared to spend a couple of hundred on an adjustable axle to achieve what a couple of hours provided at no cost.
Mike Neben
How can I identify whether I have an adjustable front axle and can the leaves be removed without removing the axle from the car? Hints and tips are welcome.
With all this talk about adjusting the torsion bars does anyone know what the length of the front shocks should be? I have the KYB GR2 shocks and they seem like they are too long. I haven’t measured them, just eyeballing.
with one post and a blue w/green stripe wire coming from it. I hooked that to the oil pressure idiot light and it works fine, on when key turned and off when rpm’s come up. Would it make sense to replace that with a two-pole sensor and run that to both the idiot light and the gauge? As for the amp gauge, do I really need to have it working if the idiot light from the alternator is functioning?
I’ve spent two months getting the wiring to work and hesitate to monkey with it now. Nobody that I know has any real knowledge about auto electrics and they all throw up their hands and say “I give up.”I appreciate all the advice and help I can get.Thanks, all. Solved the problem. FOund a source for a coupling nut and installed it. Solid as a rock and the pedal is “right” now.
Thanks, all. I have been lurking around here for the past month or so and I agree that these are great and brilliant people with hearts of gold. Well, maybe that’s a bit over the top, but I do sense that all of you are willing to lend advice and whatever else is needed.
Looking forward to meeting some of you one day. And still looking for that M10-1.25 coupler for my brake pedal assembly.
