Kent, the MG centers have a single central stud that can be held on with a cotter pin. If it does not fully cover the embossed EMPI on the cap you can cover that with a bit of thin sheet stainless or aluminum. Or even some plastic, if it’s thin enough. I think one of our members did his with some little red discs of some sort & the contrast…[Read more]

Yes, the Fiberfab kit has a gap in the wheelwell between the outside body and the inner tub. The assembly manual has you cut access holes for the hinge bolts into the tub, but that is not necessary.If it has a tendency to loosen up, then put some loctite on the threads when you reassemble and/or opt out for a locking nut.

Kent,

Cip1 has the baby moons and the dog dish style. Don’t think they have the no-logo dog dish, but the moons are no logo and could be drilled for the MG cap centers.

In another thread there was a discussion on wiper arm installation. This example is NOT the way it’s done.

 Maybe a clay bar?

Or…you could cut about 5 inches out of your steering column and re-mount it, pulling the wheel closer to the dash board. 

Leather, 15-inch diameter, 1.25-inch dish. 

Don’t suppose it’s modable?What if you unscrewed the hub pieces, straightened the spokes, cut them a bit shorter near the center and re-assembled?
edsnova2013-03-23 19:34:46

Well, Roy …how’s it feel?

No gas pedal, bro. Just a little caster wheel on a stick. That’s in front of the wok lid.

20+ years, three pedals, size 13’s…Practice.

If it were me I’d consider a spun aluminum wok lid for the bell housing cover. The rest is pretty squared off and could be made out of a re-purposed “BRIDGE OUT” sign or other easily-obtainable aluminum stock. If the actual transmission is small enough that the existing tunnel is the problem, width-wise, I’d say it’s an absolute must. But are you…[Read more]

Brilliant! 

I was going to suggest a bit of aluminum flashing. I think that corner piece might be better yet.

July, Pittsburgh Grand Prix?

+1 on Paul. The Flat4 Banjo is flat and could go there if this one needs to go back.The wood and spokes do look nice though.

Tape the area to be cut. Use a very fine saw blade. Cut up to your line then file or sand to the desired edge. File “down” on your work. Filing “up” will chip the gel coat.Patience.

I’ve decided to use a plastic outside corner bead used in finishing drywall as my starting flange. It’s extremely flexible and should give me the smart corner I was looking for. Once covered in fiberglass it should supply enough support as a bolted flange.

And just in time for driving weather – very cool