English styling & german engineering how can you go wrong

my fiberfab was a nightmare. I found some guys in fla. selling a complete harness for under 150 and I’m just starting over. sounds like you will save yourself a lot of head aches starting over.but if you want to save your current wireing ( no pun intended). do one circuit at a time, don’t think of it as one large system

I not up on the different makes but in the course of the conversation both british couch works & duchess was mentioned so somebody there is mixed up

I saw billnparts car you cannot tell it was done with a roller really nice job

front end is done except for the steering gear & wheel bearings.I could not get the play out of the steering gear you would think that they would make something that would last more than 45 years. I will post picswhen the drums & gear is on. also last week I visited a shop that makes fiberglass tops on a rumor that he has a soft top for a td. they…[Read more]

they keep the bows from moving & keep them in the proper position. learned that from my boat

e-mail me I’m in Swissvale which safelight is your stuff at? if they are open Saturday or late tomorrow I’ll put mine in my trunk its already off the car.

still waiting for the axle beam to arrive. I clean & paint more suspension parts. maybe start on the floor this weekend. If I get some good progress I’ll post some pics late sunday

I would use braided fuel line for the lines at the master. clean the reservoir out with alcohol. bleed until the fluid is clear at all 4 wheels. braided stainless steel hoses will give a nice firmer pedal.don’t forget to clean up &put a good amount of never seize on the adjusters

you can connect a dial indicator up & measure the movement. but as a state insp. mechanic for 20+years I have found if you can feel movement the part tie rodend or ball joint is on its last legs. but if greasing the joint took up the slack I would let the customer slide & tell him they would need replaced soon.

its not hard I took off the fenders & running boards. becarefull of the heat tubes underneath.also the hood sides

never mind I’m getting a new one thanks any way guys

I guess I have to make a build thread. I got the top torsion leaves out, front brakes done& painted the right side arms & spindle. I also got the left side apart. I’ll paint that stuff tomorrow

on my car the original owner did not take out any leaves top or bottom. How many of these should I take out ? probably won’t get done till next weekend I’m waiting on seals& ball joint boots

did you take out the 4 bolts on the other end of the plate? scribe them before taking out also pay attention to how many & whether inside or out the washers are

from my research the Danish floor pans are the thickest. J.C. Whitney has them the brand name starts with a k, klor some thing.

no offense taken I’m still new to all this internet computer stuff.

nice find watch my thread (I’m ready). rockauto has almost all the brake parts. if your hoses are bad get stainless hoses you’ll get a much firmer pedal keep us posted on your progress

here’s my pictures     as you can see I got my work cut out for me. yesterday & today I got the front brakes including the backing plates off,painted the new ones. a lot of wire brushing and cleaned up the shock towers I’ll keep you guys posted on my progress I almost forgot there are a couple of pics of sunday at carlisle

ok the body is loose. all that’s left is the speedo cable & master cylinder bottle. I’ll get a couple of neighbors to help me lift it off. I’ll try to get some pictures this weekend.