[Jeff Troy]

I picked up a 1/8″ x 1″ x 48″ aluminum strip at Ace (True-Value) Hardware for less than 10 bucks. I cut it to fit the width of the channel, polished the strip on my buffer, and then used rivets to fasten the forward lip of the top to the strip. Be sure to leave enough room to get the bar into channel when you attach the top lip.

I haven’t finished the car yet so I can’t promise any success, but it will certainly beat the #%* out of trying to stuff that saggy lip into the channel with no support.

Jeff Troy
759 New Holland Ave.
Lancaster PA 17602
717-917-3670
jefftroy@aol.com
www.bandmix.com/jefftroy

[Jeff Troy]

Hi, Michael and Allen,

It’s a Fiberfab, Allen, 1641 V-dub powered.

Saw your pics Michael. Thank you. Looks simple enough. Much appreciated.

Thanks again.

Jeff Troy
759 New Holland Ave.
Lancaster PA 17602
717-917-3670
jefftroy@aol.com
www.bandmix.com/jefftroy

[Jeff Troy]

Thanks Bill,
That’s what I’ve done, although the drawings in the manual make the straps appear to be not just looped around but looped and closed around both bows. This cannot be done without adding an extra buckle to each strap, so I thought it best to ask for help before proceeding.
I bought this unbuilt kit in 2004, did all the work on the glider, and hung most of the primary glass parts soon afterward.  Between a few medical setbacks and getting back on the road again (Chubby Checker tour) I only started working on the car again in May of this year.

I removed and corrected all the glass components, and got it all done except for the top, curtains, tonneau cover, and dash/instrument wiring. Only thing missing from the kit was the wire harness, so I’m building one based on a Bradley GTII harness. I built my Bradley GT in 1976 and followed up with six rebuilds or complete restorations over the years, so I’m very comfortable with VW based electrical. My GT is now on its fourth engine (1776) and fourth VDO speedometer, and has 647,000 actual miles behind it.

Again, thank you for your help and clarity  Much appreciated my friend

warmest regards, Jeff

Jeff Troy
759 New Holland Ave.
Lancaster PA 17602
717-917-3670
jefftroy@aol.com
www.bandmix.com/jefftroy

[Jeff Troy]

Hi, Junkman,

I’m the original owner/builder of a 1976 Bradley GT. My Bradley now has  635,000 actual miles behind it on its original 1600 dual port VW engine.

These cars are big fun, and I offer a CD with complete assembly and wiring manuals and 34 years of driving and restoration information about the car.

If you want proper Bradley GT and Bradley GTII information, go to

http://bradleygt.proboards.com/index.cgi

Warmest regards,

Jeff Troy

Jeff Troy40473.3970717593

Jeff Troy
759 New Holland Ave.
Lancaster PA 17602
717-917-3670
jefftroy@aol.com
www.bandmix.com/jefftroy

[Jeff Troy]

Thanks, Keith and Schu,

Thanks for the response, buds.

The kit is new and unbuilt, and I’m just starting to assemble the Fiberfab parts after completely prepping all the VW components.

Per the manual, I’ve already cut and welded the shortened neck on the tank, so that isn’t an issue. The problem is that the tank liner will not seat to the body unless I either relieve the body step beneath the liner or take a little glass away from the bottom of the liner. It’s almost as if the inner section of the body was glassed inside the outer body a bit too high.

I think that I will place the tank inside the liner to see if I can remove some of the bottom without consequence. If not, I’ll just cut away a small portion of the body step underneath.

I kinda figured that the fuse block went inside the car because the manual shows a dotted line instead of solid. I just know how inconvenient the block is in my Bradley, and I am hoping for easier access in the TD. Having doors on the TD will help, as the gullwing design of the Bradley requires me to lay down — feet up and over the T-top — whenever I have to get under the dash.

Thanks again, guys. Your help is appreciated.

Warmest regards,

Jeff Troy
759 New Holland Ave.
Lancaster PA 17602
717-917-3670
jefftroy@aol.com
www.bandmix.com/jefftroy

[Jeff Troy]

Hello,

I have a complete and unbuilt Fiberfab TD kit for VW, and have already cut and rewelded the upper front end beam as shown in the manual. This procedure drops the front end a bit, approximately one inch.

I realize that weight distribution (center of gravity) and incidence and not the same, and I’m guessing that the front end drop (incidence) is suggested to prevent the VW pan from going airborne at highway speeds. However, is making the drop enough of a step to retain decent handling, or should one or more leaves be removed from the tubes as well?

My original owner/builder 1976 Bradley GT has recently crossed the 575 thousand mile mark, and it weighs approximately 1600 pounds. It handles beautifully, but the seating area is a lot farther forward than the MG’s.

Thank you and warmest regards…

Jeff Troy
759 New Holland Ave.
Lancaster PA 17602
717-917-3670
jefftroy@aol.com
www.bandmix.com/jefftroy

[Author]

Posts