Great news. Please update on the stopping/lock-up when you add weight.

The other option is to buy and install a proportioning valve and bias the rears a little until they all lock at the same time.

That would be great on a pan-off refit. Better yet to have a stick of some kind with a remote trigger to feed the can all the way to the shift coupler area, start it spraying and slowly drag it through to the front port of the tunnel.

Will do. Sorry I haven’t been posting.

Interesting problem. I’d never heard of rear brakes making so much racket. Something, for sure, ain’t right.

One thing to check is the inside edge of the shoes, to see if they are rubbing on the backing plate. If they are, a little Never-Seize or brake anti-squeal paste should get it. Keep it off the working faces of the shoes and drums. If you…[Read more]

Correct.

Check the blog, Schubie. The wire wheels push out about an inch.

Yeah, thought of that. Getting the fenders off is a bit of a project in itself, and adding the material at the right angle (innermost bit) would have complicated the tail light bezel more than I felt comfortable doing.

The symmetry is imperfect already. I intend to improve on what’s there now. The idea is to slice them both in the same spot and…[Read more]

Super cool. Quite a long run from MD to FL in a TDr but…maybe.

Congrats to you, Greg. I looked at C4 Corvettes before buying Bridget. Cool cars that don’t get enough love, imho.

You want some air flow through there but don’t need all that much; the BCW has a couple little slits. Do make sure any “openings around the engine” are not around the tin that forms the “floor” of the engine bay. That barrier is what keeps the engine cool during summer traffic jams. If it’s not there—and a lot of kits are missing it—make it your…[Read more]

Proud to be the progenitor of a movement . . . .

Most things we do to these cars to make them look more TD-like makes them work less well; most mods to make them work better compromise the looks. The e-brake shuffle on the VW-pan cars is that rare modification that helps both looks and function.

Proud to be the progenitor of a movement . . . .

As I recall there is a different front valance and a few other tell-tales. Need a MiGi person to chime in with details.

Great work, John. A lot of really nice detail. Good on you, too, for keeping those kids out in the garage instead of in the basement where they usually end up.

Allen: The original VW float works pretty well—for the original VW gauge and exciter. For the kit gauge you ought to use the kit float and sender: they will have the correct ohms to make that gauge close to right.

As the kit setup is a universal part, made for any gas tank, it’s not surprising that it’s too long (or deep) for your particular a…[Read more]

That IS crazy!

John: pics of your dash? Your way sounds much easier than mine. Good on yea.

To me the aesthetic key is also adding the vinyl welting between the dash and the scuttle (several photos at link). That stuff covers most of whatever banding you use on your dashboard’s edges, hides any number of minor flaws and lends that overall finished look.