Looks like a pretty viable car. Nice wires. I will never understand, though, why Classic Roadsters went with a full bench seat.

BCW VW = 46″ also, hood center. It is my understanding (and the manual says) that the parts in these kits were pre-assembled or mfg’d to closer tolerances and so did not require stuff like “hood trimming.”

edsnova2015-04-01 22:26:59

Like snowflakes, these are.

Ah. Hard call but a good one. Here’s hoping the new roll bar man will actually roll you out a bar!

Highly recommend to anyone in the group who has not read it.

The Front engined BCW cars are narrower than the Ford-based cars, I am pretty sure. Might look for an MGB rear–or whatever the MGB guys use on their big swaps.

Good to meet you Paul.

The Mustang II and Pinto are about the same, in terms of parts you need to make a fake TD out of them. Mustang’s better because it will tend to have the beefier rear end. You might be needing that.

[Read more]

The Mustang II and Pinto are about the same, in terms of parts you need to make a fake TD out of them. Mustang’s better because it will tend to have the beefier rear end. You might be needing that.

[Read more]

The Mustang II and Pinto are about the same, in terms of parts you need to make a fake TD out of them. Mustang’s better because it will tend to have the beefier rear end. You might be needing that.

[Read more]

The Mustang II and Pinto are about the same, in terms of parts you need to make a fake TD out of them. Mustang’s better because it will tend to have the beefier rear end. You might be needing that.

[Read more]

Brainwave worked. She’s all solid now; buttoned-up the radiator, condenser, the windshield squirters, the wiring on the lights (they are both shooting straight), hung the fenders again. Now it’s down to the trim parts, the inner fender covers, and paint.

Yes that. I’m gonna fiddle with it anyway before lighting them to see where they point. Better is better.But if it doesn’t work and doesn’t look perfect I will still call it a victory.

Wait…you tow an airplane with your TD? Pics, please!

I show it from its most flattering angle. Headlight needs to come out a half inch on the inside. Hood still not flush, and needs to move right about 1/4 inch. Hood latch is gonna need to move right also, and down a quarter inch. Or I could shim the fenders up a little. All seems doable though.

Tried to get the hood adjusted and failed, so turned my attention to the driver’s headlight (also failed, but I have a brainwave…) so I figured what the hey, let’s test-fit the bumper cover. Pretty sure that’s gonna work fine.

Just saying: with the Suby swap, FI multiline setup, I ran the hard fuel lines through the passenger compartment, outside the tunnel. On the donor Legacy they were down under the drivers side door sill, inside the passenger compartment as well.

Good point!

Hood’s on. Gonna need a little bendy-shimmy but the main idea is there. Already latches closed and pops OK with the cable release.