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Evening,
I have installed the adjustable front axle and disc brakes without a problem. Be sure to read “PinkMG” on the proceedure.
However the ball joints are another situation. I installed the Brazillion made and the German made with the same results, a very still steering that isn’t getting any better even though I have put about 2000 miles on the car since I installed the German made ball joints. The parts place and this Form has said with wear they will become looser.
I installed the “EMPI” style wheels also.
Mr. Bill
Morning,
It would appear to me the wheel brake cylinders have probably rusted and hanging the pistons inside. At the very least I would replace the flexible brake lines that go to each wheel and wheel cylinders. There is a possibility you also have a brake master cylinder that is hanging and causing pressure to hold the brake shoes against the brake drums. I would also check the return spring on the brake pedal to make sure it isn?t binding or broken.
Bill
I have a V.W. rear bumper that I will be removing within the next few weeks from my Daytona Migi.
I have already made me a custom front bumper (the original one on my car when I purchased was a flat aluminum panel from a stadium seat) and I have the material to make a custom rear bumper.
You are welcomed to the V.W. rear bumper if you want it. Overall it is in good condition with seven 5/16″ holes drilled into it. Don’t ask me why the holes are there.
Just pay shipping.
Bill
Evening willie2,
I’m on the same time zone as Houston I am located in north Texas between Fort Worth and Dallas. Anytime after 5:00pm “Dallas” time should be great.
Bill
Evening willie2,
The spindles actually are tight when you try to move them with the tie rods disconnected. That is why I was wondering if the angle of the control arms was critical.
Here is my cell phone number but I will be occupied until Monday afternoon. 817 228 0305
I live in Texas so I am on CDL time.
I will try to have the car jacked up and the tie rods disconnected by the time you call.
I had no problem with the steering (except the ball joints were worn out) before I changed to the adjustable axle. Even then the first set of ball joints were installed wrong and the steering did not bind. When I installed the adjustable axle is when the steering started to bind.
Bill
Bill
I keep fighting the stiff steering problem. I have the “German” made ball joints installed and a new steering box. With the tie rods disconnected nothing in the steering to that point is binding. The shop that pressed the ball joints in say they are indexed correctly.
My question now is what is the relation between the upper and lower control arms? Do they hang loose at the same angle or are they at different angles.
I don’t remember how they hung on the stock axle before I started taking everything apart.
Bill
Evening,
I have only driven my car about 3 blocks. Yes steering is a little tight left and right. I haven’t checked the toe in or camber adjustment.
Before I adjusted the adjusters they were at the very bottom of the slot. Now I have the set 2 teeth up from the bottom and 7 teeth from the top. To me it appears a little high but I want to drive it a few miles before I make a decission to change the adjusters again.
Before I adjusted the adjusters the frame height set level (carpenter torpedo level) but the fenders had about 1/4″ clarence above the tires. Now the fenders clear the tires about 2 1/2″ – 3″ and the level indicates I am a little high in front.
Hopefully with a little driving everything will settle into place.
My next project will be to install my new custom bumpers and install the powder coated engine tin and two barrel carb set up. I have the new upholstery purchased just have to make time to have it made up and installed.
Bill
Morning Pink MG,
I was finally able to finish putting everything back together. I still can?t say why that upper beam would not rotate with everything bolted together but as soon as I unhooked the ball joints from both spindles it rotated smoothly.
I did have the ?German? made ball joints pressed in and it does drive better. It is still a little stiff turning but I feel better about these ball joints loosening up after a short driving period. I now need to go back and reset my ?toe in? and ?camber?.
Yes at the ?Bug In? I plan to make me a sign and lay in the seat showing how much I did not spend at Black Gold and the reason why. Due to my schedule I have not been able to attend any of the local VW club meeting and inquire about me joining their organization.
Bill
Evening Pink MG,
From some comments that were made at last years ?Bug In? at the Ennis, Texas drag strip I think the allow anyone as long as it is V.W. powered.
I have one little problem, one of the main sponsors of the club is the local parts supplier (Black Gold) that would not honor a bad part that I was sold.
I have purchased the majority of everything else from a different local parts supplier that does not sponsor the club.
It would be fun to see the owner of Black Gold?s face when he sees how much money he threw away over a $175.00 part that I know he didn?t have more than $100.00 invested in.
Bill
Evening Pink MG,
I received my ?German Manufactured? ball joints today and hopefully will start tearing the front axle back apart by Thursday.
I used black electrical tape to hold the leaves together as I inserted them. You could see all the leaves held together when the center pinch bolt was removed. I suspect I may have the leaves not straight inside the square opening of the center adjuster.
Here cruising weather is almost year around. In the winter with the top down just put on a reasonable heavy coat, gloves and a toboggan cap and you are ready to go.
There is a North Texas Volkswagen Club that meets once a month about five miles from me. I wonder if it would be to my advantage to join them?
Bill
No I didn?t. I actually think something is binding in the upper tube.
I took the upper tube ?pinch? bolt out and it appears the torsion springs rotated toward the bottom of the tube. I was unable to reinstall the ?pinch? bolt. I was able to remove and reinstall the ?pinch? bolt in the lower tube. (This is with the car jacked up.)
I have also ordered the German made ball joints and I will replace the Brazil made ones while I have it torn back down.
I know where I need to place the adjusters when everything goes back together, so I should not have to worry about it again after I reassemble.
Bill
Okay,
Thanks for the information. I was afraid I was needing to remove the control arms inorder to make it move. That was more work than I wanted to do if it wasn’t necessary.
Bill
Morning Pink MG,
Yes the car was jacked up and it is supposed to be an “up” adjustable axle. When I installed everything originally the pinch bolts and adjusters plates are at the bottom of the adjusting slot/axle.
In my mind the pinch bolt and the adjuster plates need to rotate upward toward the top of the adjusting slot/axle, is this correct?
I don’t see anything stopping movement unless maybe the sway bar is keeping it in a bind. I don’t see it touching anywhere except where it connects to the lower control arms. Like I said earlier I thought the shocks may have been preventing it form moving so I unbolted them at the top of the shock tower.
Bill
I consulted with two mechanics that had not worked on V.W.?s but their general experience was they had never encountered a problem grinding that lug down on any vehicle as long as no more than two thousands was removed.
I followed there instructions and it worked out correctly.
Mr. Bill
Thanks to both of you for the information.
Before starting the work the steering was loose to say the least. The ball joints were just barely staying in their sockets. I have already ordered a new steering box to reduce the play that I find there.
I noticed when I was installing everything back together all the ball joints seemed to be stiff. With just the spindles attached to the control arms, and nothing else connected, it took a little more pressure than I expected to move the spindles back in forth.
I have driven the car less than five miles since I did the work. I’ll drive it a few more miles and see if they loosen up. If they don’t I contact the retailer back.
Thanks for the info.
I’ll study more on how to mount the mirrors.
This windshield will also tilt forwards not that it will ever happen.
Once I have my wheels mounted and the new bumpers I’ll post the before and after pictures.
I have been given a set of mirrors and had considered what you stated.
I had also thought about making a set of tabs to insert into the frame and mount the mirrors to the tab
That is just what the person I purchased the car from said. I think the front was from the bottom of the stadium. The rear bumper is a stock V.W. bumper. What I am modifying to use as the bumpers is a 4′ set of pickup bed rails.
I now have the shocks installed and have taken the car out for a drive. Yes the ride is softer but it darts around a lot. I have double checked and everything is tight. I will take it next week for an alignment and hopefully that will stop the darting around. It may have done that before but everything was so worn out that the steering moved slow enough that it was not noticable.
Thank you for the information. I will go ahead and order the Monroe shocks.
I finally buttoned everything up this afternoon and did take it around the block without and front shocks. Yes I can feel the difference in the ride and the braking with the front disc brakes.
After I have my new wheels mounted and bumpers installed I will post pictures.
When I purchased the car the front bumper had been made from a stadium seat.
Thanks to both of you for the information.
The Monroe p/n 31538 appears to be the correct length (I left the measurements with the parts supplier so I will need to remeasure) but it is a “gas” and not an “oil” filled shock.
How much of a difference in the ride will this make?
Bill
I have also condsiered waiting and if it does rub a hole, glue and “acorn” nut on top for decoration.
No I have not driven the car yet. One thing I the original shocks are about 1 1/2″ shorter than what I am finding at the local supply parts supplier. They have kept my measurments and are trying to locate a workable shock. I sent J.C. Whitney an e-mail asking the length of thier shock but never received a reply.
The caster shims have me puzzled, where would those be installed? I thought the off set insert in the top control arm ball joint was for that purpose.
Yes both adjusters are in the same position which is actually at the bottom of the slot. That returns me to the ride height measured at the fenders that I had before.
Bill
Evening,
Well I have the adjustable front axle beam in and it does look good.
On question/comment: It appears the locater spots for the steering box has turned it slightly, now the large adjusting screw in the top of the steering box comes in contact with the filler panel just below the grille. Tomorrow I will go and pick up a couple of SS washers and use them as spacers between the finders and the filler panel.
Does this sound acceptable to you?
Thanks,
Bill
