The Ford bolt pattern is 4×4.25″ (108mm) and uses a 7/16×20 stud
The Chevette is 4x100mm and uses a 12mmx1.50 stud.
I bought the 14″ wheels that are on Larry Murphy’s BCW Chevette TD from U.S. Wheel. The sit just right on the car too.
Keep in mind that offset is not back space.

Great news Ringo…I would have lost the bet. I though that you had changed that belt a long time ago.
Any of these car with a timing belt (Ford and Chevette I-4) should have their belts replaced if it’s unknown how long it’s been in there.
Rock Auto prices the parts cheap enough to replace nearly everything you disassembled for a job done…[Read more]

The VW Autostick, as it was called, had a few problems. I suspect in a much lighter TD kit, they’d not be as bad. They used to hang up between reverse and first.
I know a guy that has converted a couple of these, one actually in a TD Replica, but he’s a 50+ year VW expert and knew exactly what parts were required (4 speed transaxle, pedal…[Read more]

It may be a very early BCW car…or prototype before they went into full scale production. However, don’t be fooled by the hardware as most of that stuff can be bolted on to most any replica. I suspect what Jas said is true, the guy is buying and flipping TD Replica’s.
The wheels are CRAGAR Tru-spokes with the Chevette bolt pattern. 
Replicar…[Read more]

I built a Ford based CMC kit that had an old set (circa 1970’s) of CRAGAR Tru-spokes with the 4 lug Ford bolt pattern. These first generation CRAGAR Tru-spoke wheels required tubes. That car is proabably still sitting in Scaramento, CA almost in the same condition I sold it (rolling chassis w/body sitting on frame). Not sure what the buyer did…[Read more]

Great news…on the road again!
About the overheating…check to see what thermostat is in it. If it’s not a 180*, change it to one. The stat’s fahrenheit value should be stamped on it, plus if it’s the original, it’s probably due for a change anyway.
If you can, pressure test the radiator cap too.
If you run just water in the system, products…[Read more]

Tires that narrow on these little cars make them a handfull to drive. (Ask the Vintage Racers).
The large diameter spoked wheel doesn’t stay true for long either…the ambient temperature even affects them. (Also straight from Vintage Racers and they drive on pool table smooth tracks).
Something to consider before you attempt a swap. Good luck if…[Read more]

Hey Sarge…GOOGLE did all the work! I can’t take the credit.
Hope you score those valve covers.

I think Fareoh sold his. I spent over $700 just getting mine rechromed! they also did bumpers and 4 overriders and it came to $1,000.

Welcome to the forum.
We’ll assume it’s a 2.3L four cylinder, and not a 2.8 V6. It sounds like you don’t have the OEM carb and/or intake on the motor if it’s a 2.3L
The OEM set up is a simple bracket that anchors the OEM Pinto/Mustang II cable. I’m sure you can find the whole set up, from pedal to carb, in a junkyard somewhere. Try some of the…[Read more]

Sorry Ringo…no new codes. I’ve not bought anything since the last ones expired. I’ll post them under this thread as soonm as they sends noew codes.
Here’s a website that sometimes has useful discount codes for many different retailers: http://www.retailmenot.com
It had a Rock Auto code good through yesterday  .

After you do what Larry said…there is a shaft driven by the timing belt that drives the distributor and the fuel pump. In all my years, I’ve never seen one of these fail on a 2.3L Ford Lima.
I’ve seen fuel pumps fail, distributor parts fail, coils fail, rarely a timing belt failure either.
Jumping timing usually happens when the timing belts are…[Read more]

I think I like it that way too  

That nylon piece is the same material the speedo gears are made from. The gear lube makes them swell and time (a few decades) makes them brittle.
Glad that it’s an easy fix and that Rick Drake had the part…he’s the bomb!!! Put a little gasket sealer on the cover when you reassemble it.
Don’t tell anyone, but Larry Murphy has a brand “new”…[Read more]

Paul and I enjoy the same sort of humor…we share the same hair styles too!
 

Paul…that banjo wheel is the Bee’s Knees!!! It looks like it belongs in a TD replica…$339 is a lot cheaper than the Grant too.
I am building a Volksrod out of one of my two Beetles. It has to have one of these wheels!

Chuck,
Most all the aftermarket steering wheels use adpaters. It would not be smart business to manufacture wheels that only fit one vehicle. Hence adapters are usually required. They also make may different logo horn buttons to sort of “match” what you want it to look like or say.
The Grant adpater (old style) should not move the wheel any closer…[Read more]

I guess you guys do read my posts!
Beavis and Butthead…now there’s a pair!
I’ve been here…daily too, just not “talking” a lot

The synthetic oil GREATLY reduces oil temps, but the residual heat from the headers did not help. The fan inhaled hot air and passed it back over the oil cooler and engine. A clogged or restricted oil cooler will cause problems too.
I have a ’74 VW that I just changed from an uncoated “extractor” to a ceramic coated system. It runs much cooler now…[Read more]

The bottom of the shifter stick has a fork that fits over a piece that is held on the shift shaft by a roll-pin. There is a little nylon “clip” that fits over this piece and receives the shifter lever fork. If this is missing or shot, you may be aboe to get one from Rick Drake, the Chevette Man in Everett, Washington. He had only a couple NOS ones…[Read more]