I believe @pmossberg had dual ICTs on his Dutchess.

Sho nuff makes it look easy.

This is a great addition. I watched all the videos of the Ford TD chassis build and was reminded of all the steps I skipped and all the modifications I’ve made over the years.

The links for these should be added to the Library.

Not sure what an Abarth style is in this context. If it’s the 4-tip GT style probably not.

We’re free to use any exhaust of course. There’s an EMPI single tip setup that puts the tailpipe in the exact right place for an MG TD. Works fine and relatively quiet. It’s not ideal for horsepower though so if you’re running a hi-po engine consider other…[Read more]

Make sure your Gen light is good. If that bulb fails the whole circuit won’t work. Yes, it’s usually that simple.

To test the new generator, remove the fan belt and give it power from the battery using alligator clips: D+ to + and then – to case and DF (field). A good generator will spin like an electric motor (because it is). If that works,…[Read more]

Alan, I’m sorry that I will be of no help to you. I run a Ford TD. I simply want to express concern that there has been no response to your post from the VW contingent. This is highly unusual.

The knock-off adaptors are easy to get, and it’s not much to have a machine shop drill and tap the 4 x 4.5-inch pattern. I used bolts screwed from the inside of the drums and rotors to mount. All straightforward.

But the wheels widen the track by an inch at every corner.

On the front you can fix that with a narrowed beam. In back you’re…[Read more]

Having done it, I advise against real knock-off MWS wire wheels.

Procedure:

Step 1: Leave the car over night somewhere safe where you can work on it without moving it. You want the engine cold for this.

Step 2: pull the valve covers and check the tappets. Use the Bentley Manual procedure or the one found in Muir’s “Compleat Idiot” illustrated manual. Be careful to note whether your pushrods are the stock…[Read more]

The port most people use is on top of the engine just behind the distributor. There should already be a sender switch screwed in there with a wire coming off it. That’s your oil pressure (green) light. To get a proper gauge you T that port. Screw the idiot light sender into one hole and the gauge sender (either oil temp or oil pressure) into the…[Read more]

Yes. Keep them away from brine.

Awesome slide show, Bill. Thanks for that!

I blogged the journey on the Spyder build site: https://alongcameaspyder.wordpress.com/2023/10/11/air-auto-classic-11/

Well another Virginia Beach event is in the books. Beautiful weather for the ride down and back with Saturday producing some spitting during the show, but the ride to and from the show were dry. We had a modern day tent revival on the beach by the hotel Friday and Saturday night. This is my photo dump.

Hoping to see the Spyder – looking forward to a ride Ed. I never got one somehow.

HA! Did not realize you changed out your R&P. Fun.

I finished installing new control arm bushings in Bridget a couple weeks ago, then she wouldn’t start. Chased electrical gremlins all week and she finally fired right up, then would not go into gear! So I bought a new clutch cable, and also welded the cable tube more firmly into inside of the…[Read more]

Still on schedule. Racing’s over. The cage is off and the seat is out. The windshield is back on. I just finished swapping the 4:11’s for the 3:40’s. A couple more little things to address yet, but we should be ready. Can’t wait.

Ed and Bill and anyone else coming still in for the show?

Hopefully weather is good because I’m out the following week ( vacation in Texas ).

Looking forward to it.

Good on ya, Adam!

Congratulation on your purchase. Sounds like you found a nice one. Welcome.