It’s there. I can pull it up, but, you’re right, a general search does not work. Send your email address to ‘billnparts@yahoo.com” and I’ll try to send it direct.

The bels should be mounted into the frame or some structural metal. The outboard belt is easy enough, you can bolt it into the frame rail. The inboard is not so easy. There is nothing there but fiberglass. When I had my safety cage constructed the chassis shop installed a metal brace off the frame to mount the belt. In lieu of that, use the…[Read more]

My VDO Speedo was doing the same thing. I decided to take it apart. I found there was a jackshaft between gear sets that had become misaligned. It snapped back into place easily enough. Problem fixed. Replacement bezels are available on the VDO website.

Search for forum topic “ Odometer” for photos and detailed instructions.

Hope this helps.

Congratulations.

Photo insertion instructions by the great Ed Ericson :

First you go to your own thing. Upper right corner it should say something like “Howdy, Happy Jack.” Click on that and you get a drop-down menu. At the bottom it says “media.” Hover over that with your curser and you should see another drop-down menu with “albums,…[Read more]

Blackwalls were more common and were OEM for TDs. I think wide whitewalls can look stunning on them as well. Ultimately it’s gilding the lily though: these cars have so many neat details and features that whitewalls can get lost in the mix.

Gangster whites are a personal choice. I’ve seen cars where they look pretty good and others where they are hideous. Owners choice as to what look they want. Scroll through the gallery and check out various photos. Good Luck.

I think I’ve used both.

That’s why it’s coming out. I mean put taller ramps under the front—even the same height ones will work. With the car level it won’t leak oil from the reverse light port. That said, best to just go ahead and change it though, as mostly no one ever does it, and it should be done at least once per generation.

A lot of guys swear by Swepco. I just b…[Read more]

If you tilt the car back a little you should be OK.

It’s quite probable that 1984 was the year the build was completed. I have mine titled as a 1989 for that very reason. Some folks have theirs titled as the year of the donor car, but 1984 counts that out.

Good luck on you acquisition. If it is roadworthy in time, consider the Virginia Beach event.

I don’t know what make of wheel you are running, but I have had a set of Cragar Tru-Spokes for over 30 years with very few issues. Certainly not noise.

Perhaps spraying WD-40 or equivalent at the contact points of the spokes might help.

The wheel Paul linked is a Flat4. Good stuff; I put one on my Spyder. Also looks not dissimilar to the original TD wheel.

Here’s another source for something like it: https://www.amazon.com/MOTAFAR-Steering-Compatible-Speedster-Varnish-black/dp/B0BS3Q1JWP/ref=asc_df_B0BS3Q1JWP/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693605349091&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvran…[Read more]

Plans:

Arrivals begin Thursday via caravans & etc.

Thursday night dinner is with the Dune buggy guys at the field.

Friday 10am step off for a covered bridge tour, which goes to lunch at Grandpa’s Love Shack at about 1. From there you can head to the show field, back to hotel or elsewhere.*

Friday dinner is the venerable Restaurant Scramble. Or…[Read more]

Here’s how it ended up:

Hey Richard!

When I did mine, about 10 years ago, I bought a used ’73 Bug Speedometer, a white-face gauge kit, and a chrome bezel, then got a Classic Instruments tach in the 5-inch size to (sort of) match. This of course snowballed into a major dashboard refurb but it ended up pretty good imho and it was a fun project.