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Beats me. Im guessing the bolt worked loose causing stress on the non threaded portion. I don’t know if the bolt was torqued properly by the previous TD owner, or Chevette owner for that matter.
Update on broken pulley bolt. Was able to extract the threaded portion of the bolt from the crankshaft. There’s a crankshaft spacer behind the timing gear on the crankshaft, and it had slid forward out of the engine block about 3/4 of its way out to prevent the timing sprocket from keying onto the crankshaft. See the enclosed pics.
I was able to press the spacer (that outside ring on the crankshaft) back in place by hand pressure after cleaning and oiling it freely. Installed a new front crankshaft oil seal just to be safe. I was lucky the timing gear (and spacer) weren’t lost on the highway.
The pulley had some nicks and bends and I tried to straighten it on my drill press and file the rough spots down so it doesn’t eat the belt. Its not perfect but it might do for a while. Some wobble remains so still looking for a replacement pulley.
Thanks, Paul. The “delete” feature didn’t seem to appear anywhere on that particular reply Maybe because the reply was in the form of an URL, rather than a text comment? Anyway, I feel better now!
Looks like my steering wheel. My rivets are recessed a bit too, but have never bothered me. The rivets don’t look like they unscrew from the back. You might be able to sand the front side down to rivet depth, but could do more damage than good. I’d recommend leaving as is and put a nice finish on the wheel.
Seems he has one left. There are other similar sellers but make sure it’s real leather not imitation or the iron on process will melt it. Also make note of mfrs logos location. Iron on might not hide it.
Took the big step and replaced original Chevette radiator with a high performance 2 row aluminum. New radiator was listed on EBay as for a 1992 – 2000 Honda Civic EG/DEl Sol/Integra with automatic transmission, including fan for less than 75.00. Also bought a 48 inch stainless steel hose kit and water temperature switch and harness. Didn’t have a convenient place to mount the sensor switch but I found a NOS Everco W2495 Chevette thermostat cover with 1/2 inch threaded opening on top for air conditioning switch. Radiator is mounted up higher and closer to the front of the car.Took about three days to assemble and it looks great. Performance results are promising
You wonder what was going through the minds of the original builders on some facets of the build. Maybe he thought by casing the brake line in fiberglass it would be forever protected and never ever a problem. Mine might have been a “Hold my beer. I’ll put that steering shaft in”. Sounds like you had it a lot worse. At least your floorboards will repel moisture for a while!
P.S. Tested car after babysitting with grandkids 36 hours later.. turned ignition to on 2X to prime fuel pump. Car started on first crank!
I’m using a Budge Size 2 from Walmart. Good for in garage or short term outside. Full bumper coverage and nice elastic fit. I’m thinking it was around 30 Bucks…
The 2 brackets in center came with the kit. I had the 2 end brackets made at Goodman Steel in Zanesville. They saved the dimensions in their computer in case anybody else needs them made.Since they were higher profile than the originals I polished them a bit with a wire brush on my drill press.
Inserting one of the brackets inside the rear bumper spring
Measuring for bolt sleeves at top of bracket. Both sides needed 2 inches
Bolt sleeves installed. No metal to metal contact (rack and hubcap).
All finished! Just needs a little touch up paint and we’re ready for Marietta.
