I vote for the second one. The green oval with the red car. It shows up the best. Have money in my payPal acct and ready to order. Vic

Ok… found some of my old badge ideas
  Most still have the car in them but we can edit that and put something in it’s place if we think it’s going to be a problem…
Here they are…

Paul is correct.. I had made some designs using powerpoint. they were rather simple. I was clearing some of the clutter from the server and deleted them just two days ago
Hopefully, I still have a copy on my other computer. I’ll try and look for them tonight. If not, all is not lost…. I can put a few more together over the next week or so…. I…[Read more]

I thought this was like “cast in stone”…Now here we are back to square one starting all over ..Had a feeling a few monkey wrenchs were out there…But one thing I do agree on is TD Replica Dot Com..instead of the word Club

Hey, what’s wrong with “mutant” cars.  I’ve been toiling for years to mutate mine, and I’m stioll not done!
Michael, Merlin’s Frankenstein.
By the way, dash is ancient history, clay mock-up for mold for raked back grill/front end is complete, ready to make the mold and start laying up fiberglass. Thinking seriously about “going pro” with this stuff.

Good comments Mark.
When we first stared this badge thing, I beleive Frank posted a picture (on the old yahoo site) that worked off the traditional MG octagon.
If I recall it correctly, I think it would be far easier to reproduce in enamel or cloisonne.
Frank, am I dreaming? If not, can you find that art work and post it again?

I hate to be a spoil sport or stick in the mud, but I’m thinking that to reproduce the car in cloisonne on our badge would be too hard. It would never be as detailed as the drawing. So here goes my idea:
A “sprocket” edged badge like the current drawing in chrome or polished is the background.
“TDReplica.com” in black letters in the current po…[Read more]

 I am ready to order the Badges and I am told that the it would take six to eight weeks for completion and shipped…Only thing to have all agree on is the letters “USA”or would “WorldWide Members” be better as we have a few members in other countries..And Colors…I was thinking of RED  around the edge a YELLOW background behind the Car and a G…[Read more]

Count me in for one, whatever the design ends up.
Michael the merlin guy.

Hi Mark,
I will take a badge. I will send the $ in advance if that helps. I suggest you collect every ones money up front. Let me know final cost with s&h and Ill send it out.
Thanks,
Bill Hursh
Wolcott NY

100% correct concerning spring rates and ride. Never understood why CMC told you to cut a coil out of the front springs on the Ford and Chev TD kits. Cutting a coil increases the spring rate.
However, my point with the VW TD is very simple and has nothing to do with the spring rate.The  car is too light in the front period. The weight bias is…[Read more]

MCM 800-543-4330
http://www.mcminone.com

Where can I get more info on MCM electronics?
Frank

Hey Bill
I don’t even want to tell about the disaster I am facing with my Chevette based TD. I was trying to hook up the electronic (Hall effect) speedo sensor for the new Autometer speedometer I installed. To make a long story short, the little nylon speedo gear on the end of the cable drive is now residing in the transmission somewhere. A…[Read more]

Adding ballast is NOT the way to make your kit car ride and handle correctly. The one and only way is to lower the the spring rates to fit the weight and weight distribution of the car.
When racers dial in their cars, they don’t add weight to the front or rear of the car to get the thing right. True, they may add weight in a particular spot…[Read more]

Brian is close regarding Classic Roadsters’ solution.
The provided a fiberglass weight box which holds 150 pounds of sand. It is mounted directly behind the grill shell. Top of the box is even with the top of the body side panels. It is trapezoid shaped to fit the body as it angles in towards the grill shell. It’s about a foot and a half deep and…[Read more]

The Seat belts need to be mounted to or underneath the seat. However, make certain that they go through a frame member. There should be one close in the car you have as it came with it’s own steel frame. If you need to weld a support bracket – then do so. Under no circumstances rely on just bolting through the fiberglass floor. Even with large…[Read more]

Quick Answer
1)Daytona Automotive Fiberglass produced the first US MG Kit sometime in the early 70’s. Calling it the Daytona MiGi. Laverne Martenic had a copyright on the car. They had there own emblem for the grill. It was not the original MG False Nose Emblem.
2)Fiberfab started to produce the Fiberfab MIGI a little later and sold far more than…[Read more]

I Purchased a set of JC Whitney caps and they don’t stay on. Also tried Auto Zone and Pep Boys. The problem is that they are not deep enough. I also went the smoothie route. If anyone finds a wire wheel cover that will fit and stay on please let me know. I’m tired of buying and returning the items. it cost more in freight and my time than getting…[Read more]

The FF MIGI Harness was all black as I recall but the wires were marked as to their function. I allways thought the harness was decent and so were the diagrams. Also the harness was included with the kit.
After FF was acquired by CMC the FF VW TD and CMC kits were identical, save for a couple of emblems. The wiring harness was optional but color…[Read more]