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As soon as I can get the last uncooperative cap screw removed (it’s soaking in Kroil), I’ll be removing the grille/nosepiece from mine, to start modifying an OEM grille shell for it.
Note that my kit doesn’t have the separate piece shown in the FF manual here, with the slats installed on a framework. How do you go about safely removing the shaped grille slats for an old FF kit where the slats are chrome pieces with a 90 degree bend in them, to fit over the molded slats in the fiberglass nose? I can’t tell how they were originally attached, though I suspect double-sided tape. I see no evidence of bolts/screws on the back side…I want to remove mine (the four I have on each side) and paint that area gloss black, then reinstall them…
KentT 2013-05-06 09:14:01 Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...On my Daytona MiGi, there are 12 of these chromed slats, 6 per side of center. They are quite substantial and have one small pop rivet on each end. No tape. This is really no help to you as my grill is chromed steel. Sorry.
Here’s the second “no help” suggestion.
Aren’t we great? Even if we have no experience with a specific issue or car, we’re ready to offer advice!
If you think the slats are glued to the fiberglass, try a heat gun and see if that loosens the adhesive. Work the temp up slowly, gently prying on the end of one slat.Even is this does not work, I don’t see how it could do any harm.Another approach, if you cannot get the slats off, tape ’em up and paint the black areas.PMOSSBERG2013-05-06 10:23:34
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Kent,
Not sure if it’ll help because my FF kit is a newer one, but the grill slats are riveted on a top and bottom frame which has a hole on each corner. The bottom of the corner slats have a hole in them and this whole assembly fits into the chrome grille piece over eight (I believe) studs. I used square push on nuts to hold the assembly to the studs in the grille. The fiberglass shell, which is painted black, then fits inside the chrome grille/slats assembly. Look on page 26 of the FF assembly manual in the download manuals tabon the left.newkitman2013-05-06 10:29:50
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackKent, Here is more advice from a guy with a different grille from your’s.I think your grille is one of those designed to not use a chrome grille shell. I’m not sure just how the chrome shell will fit over what you have . If I were you I’d be careful to not damage what you have untill you know how things are going to fit. Paul’s suggestion to tape and paint may be your best option.
Well, improvising with a redneck heat gun (aka hair dryer), I was able to successfully remove one that was a little loose to see what I have…
It is an “L-shaped” piece of black plastic that has the chromed mylar/plastic wrapped around it. It is 7/16″ on the short leg and 9/16″ on the long leg. It appears to have had the adhesive already on it, since I peeled off a thin layer of black adhesive that seems to have been very evenly applied, so I don’t think it was simply 3M-type weatherstrip adhesive used to glue it on.Several of the strips have dents/dings in them, so I think I’ll just use this heat technique and remove the rest. The problem is that due to age, the chrome layer on the outside will crack very easily when removing it, especially if it gets bent, and likely would flake off in time. I may have to use the chrome tape that someone else just posted about using…As far as the kit details — as I’ve stated, I’m not absolutely sure that this is a FF kit, since I haven’t found any FiberFab markings, only a serial number on the firewall/backside of dashboard. But, Based on my research, I certainly think it is. The early FF kits came with a molded one-piece grille shell that mounted to each fender, and the chrome grille shell was an optional accessory, as were the correct TD-type headlight mounting brackets. My car has neither, and the headlights bolt to the grille shell, as seen above.It also doesn’t have a round tubular badge bar. I have one that I think the PO fabricated from flat steel and painted it silver. Though not authentic, it certainly makes it easy to mount lights, license plates, etc., to it…
KentT2013-05-06 11:42:11Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Sounds like progress.
BTW, badge bars were aftermarket, so “authentic” is in the eye of the beholder. Lotta guys (even on originals) used towel racks and they look/work pretty good.
Well, the nose is off and the chrome strips removed. I damaged a couple while removing them, so I think chrome tape is the solution. Thanks everyone.
Surprising how much access there is with the nose removed.. I’m going to take advantage and fab up some front bumper mounts while I have such great access, in addition to cleaning up the wiring a bit, etc.BTW, I also managed to identify the funky nose badge on this car — it is the Hanover Germany Auto Club. Since it will be replaced with an MG nose badge, this will likely go on theSamba or eBay. Not sure why PO would put that on, rather than something MGish…
KentT2013-05-06 16:05:12Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...The front badge bar is easily acquired through a boat store. Its nothing more than a grab handle.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"billnparts wrote:The front badge bar is easily acquired through a boat store. Its nothing more than a grab handle.Doesn’t the badge bar also have light mounting tabs on it? The one from Moss Motors does, as I recall. I don’t know what came with these kits.I want to mount lights on it, up higher so they’ll shine down over the bumper and over-riders better.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...In der Heide 29
D- 31515 Wunstorf
Deutschland
Tel: 05033 / 3361
Contact: Rafael Schubert <mg.driver@web.de>
Unser Club besteht aus 34 Mitgliedern und ist überwiegend regional aktiv.
Wir treffen uns regelmä??ig, zusammen mit anderen “Engländern” der Umgebung, an jedem 1. Dienstag des Monats am Zoo Hannover.
Ab 18.30 Uhr drau??en auf dem Parkplatz und ab ca. 19.30 Uhr in der Zoo-Gastronomie “Meyers Hof”.
Wir freuen uns auf Euren Besuch!Ed, you could at least provide a translation.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Kent, you are right that all badge bars are not created equal. My MiGi’s bar has two holes in it. Mounted is one fog and one driving light.
From IMtranslate:
Our club exists of 34 members and is active predominantly on the regional level.
We meet regularly, together other ‘Englishmen’ of the surroundings, in everybody 1st Tuesday of the month in the zoo Hannover.
From 18.30 o’clock outdoors on the parking lot and from approx. 19.30 o’clock in the zoo catering trade ‘ Meyers of court ‘.
We are glad about your visit!Kent was asking about his Hanover Auto Club badge on his MG. I did the obvious Google search, is all.
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