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johnsimion, I also removed the small torsion bars, just leaving the big ones. Did you do that also?
You may be right on the 4″ business.I took a door off and stripped the hardware to use as a test panel. Sigh, looks like a repaint. Big problem is rust stains from the snaps that don’t want to sand out. However, the boat yard idea is worth checking out. Easy enough to take the door, and see what they say.
Thanks allWhen I bought mine (in very sad condition) I noticed right off the tires were way outside of center of the fenders. One of the first things I did was buy a narrowed front end, 2″… (As I had to rebuild the front end anyway, the expense was not all that much more) I do not have it on the road yet, but, I wish I could have found a 4″ narrower beam. It would have centered better. And I owned a TC in the past-they were very narrow track vehicles, compared to modern cars.
Problem solved, apparently. I just tapped it out with a small punch. With this new key switch, it apparently serves no purpose.
Question for you guys that installed the disk kits: Did you do a stud conversion, or just used the standard lug bolts?
MGLondonRoadste wrote:Yes, the Soltice looks nice, but have you tried to take the convertible top on and put it back on when you’re pressed for time? I looked at one at one for sale in Phoenix. The salesman couldn’t figure out how to show me how the top came off. You have to unsnap it all the way around and manually put it in the trunk. I thought we did away with that design in the 1950s? I’m glad I went with the Honda S2000 for a modern car. 5 to 6 seconds and the top is either up or down, neatly stored. No trunk space lost.You must be talking about the tonneau cover. The top goes up in about 30 seconds. No snaps at all. You do have to get out of the car to put it up, though.Shiney bits and bad paint
Here is a shot of my gelcoat. It’s worse that shows in the pic. The “whiteish lines” are cracks.
And here is a shot of the right hand wind wing after cleanup. I used Diamondite cleaning system on the pexi, and it worked fairly well. Took out all but one deep scratch. Polished the shiney bits on a small buffer, nothing special there. Painted the brass cap nuts with clear nail polish-not sure how long that will last out in the weather. Should be good for a while…
Unfortunately, I’m missing one mounting bolt. Anybody got an idea where I could find a replacement?
Thanks very much for the responses. I will order the Autosol stuff and try it out. Sanding all the way out to 2000/3000 is just a bit much work! If I can get it done using just a buffer-I’m a happy camper.
Yes, I bought the pre-shortened leaves. Since I live in an apartment now, there is only so much I can do without having “neighbor problems”. Got the car up on jackstands today. Humm think I’ll make this a post in general discussion…HubertBig box delivery today! The new, narrowed front end, shortened torsion bars and tie rods from CIP. Now the question: I assume I need to remove the smaller leaves from the torsion bar pack, as it’s talked about in this forum?
BaytownTD2014-01-02 18:27:43
Today, I tested a small area, sanding with 400 grit (to progress to 600 grit, then compound, then, if there is any color left, wax!)
I really think thats what it’s going to take. I actually think I’m dealing with gelcoat, not paint. It did leave the area -much- smoother, and I eliminated most of the “orange peel”.Gonna be a lot of work, but then I have more time than money! 🙂Well on mine, the “spare tire cover” is a separate piece. Appears to be pop-riveted on. And the clearance is needed for the air cleaner/carb…. Might be able to rig something on the “luggage rack”. But I’d still worry about the weight. Maybe the best solution is like the Solstice-a can of fix-a-flat….
Hey Bill, your name sure sounds familiar. Have we met at some event or another? Do you frequent the Cars & Coffee thing out on the north side?
Hubert AtkinsonThere is an article in the current American Rifleman on the ammo situation. Bottom line, more shooters and folks are stocking up. The ammo manufacturers have started gearing up, but expect shortages for at least the next 6 months. On the driving side, we are going thru our typical winter cycle of warm front/rain, cold front/clear. Mostly rain the last few days, looks like we’ll have a nice Xmas, though.
The V-8 conversion is really not all that difficult. If, as you say, you have deep pockets. You can also drop a lot of coin on a blower for the NA model.
Oh, its the little things you can’t see… Like a Borla exhaust, a K&N CAI, and from DDM Works (my favorite drug dealer), Probeam, Chassis brace, Front cross brace, Hawk brake pads and a switch to DOT 5 fluid, and several shiny bits here and there, under the hood….
There there is Xmas presents, a new chrome wire grille.. Need I continue?..I am definitely going to try to start the thing -if it will turn over- before I pull it. There is always the chance it’ll be fine! 🙂 I don’t think I want to hotrod the thing much. If I do have to replace the cylinders, yah, go for the bigger displacement, but don’t think I’d want to do crankcase machining, cams, etc.
I don’t have the car here at my place, yet. One car garage, got to get my 2007 Solstice squared away somewhere before I can put the TD in. Right now, it’s still sitting on the trailer at my B-in-L’s.And grandson & I have a little weekend project for the Solstice anyway. (Wire mesh grill install) Realistically, it’ll probably be after Xmas before I can get my hands dirty.Baytown is basically a suburb of Houston, about 20 miles east of Houston along I10, maybe 15 miles north of NASA. Claim to fame-its the starting point of what now is Exxon-Mobil. (Humble Oil) At one time had the biggest refinery in the world. -May not be now.
Thank you, gentlemen, that is exactly the kind of advice I was looking for.
As for the motor-I really know nothing about it other than it has sat for about 10 years. I do not know if the motor is bad, but sitting that long I really suspect I”d be looking at new cylinders/rings at a minimum. So the motor has to come out. Since it’s out and on the stand, makes sense to me to check it all the way down. Now, I have to balance the cost of parts-and maybe a bit of outsourced labor- versa the cost of replacement drop-n.I do know my way around this type of engine rebuilds- old enough to have cut my teeth on flat-head Fords and Blue Flame sixes…. And various types of motorcycles, English, German and Jap. So I know general rebuild procedures. Long ago, and far away, I once rebuildt a Ford 390 in the bed of a pickup. I was younger then, and could wrestle better. But that story is for another time and place. 🙂
