A great gathering if anyone shows up!

The 165s on Bridget, with a stock 1971 Bug speedo, give me dead accurate speedo readings. Within about 1 mph at 65.They also fit fine under the fenders–and I’m sprung a couple inches lower than stock, owing to torsion bar fatigue on the rear with no good way to re-index without removing the body.They should fit.

Mine actually is a ’50, ’51, ’52, ’66, ’69, ’71, ’80, from what I can tell so far.

One shop tried to sell me 185/60s. I said no. I’d consider them for a Speedster though.Bottom line is, you’ll be able to source your tires. Go to five shops and three are gonna have them and one of the other two will be able to get them in a day.

“One piece at a time.” Always like that tune.

Guessing you’ve got 458s, Allen. 45th week of 1998. Click the link on “discussion” on the second post above and look at the pictures. That’s how I got it.

Update– someone correct me if I’m wrong, but my understanding is that any 3-digit date code means the tires are at least 11 years old and are well past their expiration date. So NewKitman’s 406 example, above, would be the 40th week of 1996–15 years old, not April 2006, five years old.Anyone? Bueller?

The gauge MFG should be able to tell you what the ohm range is. I’d take all the numbers off it and go to the Google. The Samba probably has an opinion, which may or may not be the correct opinion. You also might be able to figure it out using a good rheostat switch (like maybe the dash light switch) but that’s just my guess.

use the ohm function on your multi meter.Here’s how.

Kumho and Nankang seem to be the mfgs now. Remember to check the dates. I just got a set of Nankangs, mounted and balanced for about $400. That was about the Amazon price, plus work and tax.Sticker shock? Yeah. But I took that deal after getting other, higher quotes.

Congrats, Pat!And right on the tires. Had the same deal with mine but I drove it for a year first. Very lucky to have got away with that. The car drives a lot nicer with new rubber.Have fun.

I love that pin. As soon as I start really trying to get the Lucas stuff to work I know I’ll start screaming. 

HAR!I keep buying accessories and stuff ever since I got the car. Dunno why.

As a former band geek (and drum & bugle corpsman, for those initiates of the truly obscure), I salute you & your priorities, sadly. So who’s in?

Who is good for Saturday, September 24?Let me know if you can–or can’t–make it.I am currently plotting a 20-mile country cruise to go along with. Thinking we could meet late afternoon at a park and drive the back roads for about 45 minutes to Stoney’s. The roads around there are pretty nice.If we get more than two or three I’ll call Stoney ahead…[Read more]

To NewKit: Yes. Stock front sway bar. ’69 pan.There is no provision or recommendation for ballast in the BCW car. I believe the thread(s) about the adjustable beam address the ballast question in the negative. Or at least Mark (PinkMG) does. Bridget’s troubles were related to the over-stiff front sprong rate and the ancient tires, both cured now.…[Read more]

Sure you had oversteer in your Beetle before the rear sway bar, BD?Other than that, I concur. It is probably a good idea to do a rear swaybar install on the IRS TD, since we’ve modded the VW to place even more weight rearward while unloading the front suspension, which tends in both cases to promote understeer. With the adjustable front beam…[Read more]

I like the plastic idea but these “purists” here…I dunno…

Mark: Baltimore. Roll down 95–or Route 1, why not?–I’ll take you for a spin in Bridget and then you can head toward Columbus on I-70

Good deal!