I dunno, Jack; that all looks pretty good to me. Enjoy the rest of the build!

Good news! Congratulations.

Jack, now would be the time to consider opening up the horizontal portion of your cowl above the pedal assembly. If you would ever need to get to your stop light switch or pedal bushings, whatever, it will beat laying on your back through the door opening working blind by feel. (Can you tell I’ve been there?)

Looking good though. Keep it up.

That is good advice.

Yeah, slow is fastest, and don’t push the tool. This thing is new to me too (got one for Christmas) and it’s a damn revelation. Just makes a lot of formerly hard things easy, and several formerly impossible things also easy.

At your service.

Roy actually pioneered the wire-wheel adaptation. Use Triumph TR2-3 adaptors, drill and tap your VW hubs @ 4 x 4.5 to accept the adaptors. Screw short bolts in from the back to use as studs—I used lock washers and red threadlock. Then install the adaptors and the knock-on wheels as normal.

Any and all wire wheels will push out t…[Read more]

Welcome, Bob! Nice car.

Roy, your explanation of the top differences is bang-on. The BCWs leak a bit, some (like mine) more than others. The price one pays for almost authenticity.

The wood along the back is correct for a real TD. They would have snaps attach to the wood, and the top attached that way, rather than snaps in the metal body tub…[Read more]

Welcome! She looks good. I wish you luck on the search for the shiny grille shell. I needed to replace mine back in ‘08(accident) and finally settled on a damaged shell from an original TD and modified my fenders to fit. I recall a year or two ago, there was a fellow carrying one around at Carlisle trying to sell it. Just be patient, one will t…[Read more]

Glad to help. The real work is all your own.

For the record, Roy’s recollection is right: TDs (and TFs and TCs, etc.) had plywood floors. The chassis was steel—it looked like C channel but was actually a rectangular tube that was relieved on its inboard sides. The body panels were framed internally with ash wood—that’s the “wood frame” people talk about and it is hard to repair if it rot…[Read more]

use a putty knife and a lot of elbow grease; maybe combined with some Goof Off.

Or better: get one of those oscillating cutoff/multi-thingies that didn’t exist 20 years ago and how did we ever do anything without them? They come with a flat blade that’s made to peel construction adhesive, mastic & tile, etc off floors. Should make quick work of…[Read more]

perfectly nice. They say those old MGs had some wood structural components, ya know.

Very good.

What you don’t see, does not matter.

Is there any way to re-mount the slave so it pushes on the clutch lever closer to the pivot point?

Or is it possible the pedal isn’t giving enough travel to the master cylinder? Maybe drill another hole in the pedal arm a little lower down…?

Fired it up again today. Reset the timing. Bled the clutch again. No Air. Cannot get enough travel from the slave cylinder to fully disengage the clutch. I’m contemplating a hair brained scheme to extend the original clutch cable. Haven’t made up my mind yet. So close…

Jack, I never had to cut the hat. It was used as is. It simply bolted to the small flange on the rear cover. Drill your own holes.

The fix for too-much-cut on fiberglass is not mysterious, Jack.

You know what you have to do. Also, it isn’t difficult. The material is easy to work and very forgiving.

Have fun!

That is both mean, and nasty!

HOOORAH!

I stand corrected…video works.