I almost named a boat of mine missyfishandsea.  Pictures would definitely help.  Close ups of the engine, the dashboard, interior, and anything else on the car that your Dad was particularly proud of.
Was it a front engine or rear (VW based)?  Do you remember who made the kit?  (Fiberfab, Allison, British Coach Works, Daytona, Classic Motor Car…[Read more]

John, beautiful! One minor point: the starter on a MGT (all) was a “pull to start” black octagon headed switch.

Steve, great idea. If you wanted to make the rack look a bit more professional, some plumbing supply and tool rental places have a pipe bending tool that you could use to radius the top and the bottom piece so it would look almost exactly like some of the expensive aftermarket racks.

I agree with Kent, the steel used in the torsion bars is exceptionally hard. You would probably have the most luck on the detention using a Dremel and a grinding wheel. The leaves could be easiest cut with an angle grinder.

You might want to make sure it’s paint and not gelcoat.  The process is different..

Without question: Major progress! Looking good.

and if that fails, I vote for a Morgan +4 (like I’ve always wanted but is looking increasingly unlikely).   

Contraceptive.

John, this is not to solve your fitting problem, but, I believe that if you have VW wheels they would be 4x130mm lug pattern.

Paul, you’re easily the best TDr moderator I’ve ever known.  …and a special thanks to Stephen also. 

It’s not a question of the height of the master cylinder.  If the brake fluid reservoir is higher than the brake cylinder bleed valves it’ll work.  I’ve done it.   Gravity bleed:  Works good, but don’t be in a big hurry. 

Bill, I know that the intensity of your interest in Autocross and Hillclimb etc exceeds mine. But, I’ve been doing it longer so allow me a suggestion: I have found that if you say “S**t, S**t, S**t!!!” three times, it is highly effective.  One must practice to get the cadence just right and it is important that each utterance is at a s…[Read more]

LRH, I think you mis-read the post that I linked. The screen door type latch that I posted is very good as a SECONDARY latch. Your factory door lock is very similar if not exactly like original MGTD locks.  These are notorious for their unlatching at the most inopportune times.  Many of us have installed the screen door types as a secondary p…[Read more]

LRH, seehttps://tdreplica.com/forum2/forum_posts.asp?TID=3393&KW=lock&PID=19320&title=suicide-door-locks#19320

Some LR’s had custom frames and suspensions.  In order to help, we would need a lot more information.  Perhaps some really good pictures of your front suspension?

If my speedometer didn’t work, I’d consider them. But too pricey for me.   

My opinion: Eventually you’d be sorry (if you cut the fiberglass).

John, I too own an early Daytona (my number is below.  What’s yours?).  I am 5’11” tall and have no problems fitting nicely inside.  I do not have any spacers under the boxes.  Since you know that you are uncomfortable sitting so high, why not remove the 2×6’s and see if you could get comfortable?  Perhaps remove the seat back altogether just to s…[Read more]

Realizing that none of our TDr’s have air conditioning, it would be of little to no value in the warmer weather or even all year round in the milder climates. When I first got my Daytona, I looked into making one but decided I’d never use it. Turns out I rarely even use my canvas top…you asked for opinions.

Bill, Really glad to hear of no permanent damage to either yourself or your car.  But, if you were doing these welds yourself, well, I have to agree with Ed.  Ya know?  Three strikes and you’re out.  I never weld anything that’s important – there are plenty of guys that are good at it.