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On my Classic Roadster MGTD, the factory made Tonneau Cover, coveres the top and bows. The Tonneau cover, snapps onto the dash between the windshield and over the top of the dashes two humps. This is nice as the wooden dash and all gauges are covered. The rear edges of the Tonneau Cover, coveres the top and bows, and has button snaps on the back side of the rear Fiberglass tie in piece, just above the engine cover. I am sewing a new Tonneau Cover for my car, using Marine Grade vinyl, with an over sized sipper running down the middle. Mg Magic sells Tonneau covers for the Fiber Fab Kit as well. They cost a small fortune, so you may want to contact a local Upholstery Auto Shop to get an estimate on the cost of one to be custom made for your car.
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayHey David, I appreciate your astute observations. I used 1/2 ” channel Aluminum stock, the ears are 1/2″ so you are just seeing optics from the angle. Yes the 3rd image was the original Duchess part that I used as a temple. I looked for 8 years to find an exact replica, before it occurred to me to just make a replica out of Aluminum channel stock. I left a wall of approximently 1/8″ high to give the bracket some strength. I also heated this Aluminum bracket, and bent it ever so little, to match the original, and the slight curve of the windshield frame. You are correct, the plastic bushing is to prevent any “crushing” caused by tightening of the bolt and nut. I did use a star washer between the nut and the steel chrome u shaped bracket that is mounted to the Plexiglass Wind Wing. This gives plenty of tightening power so the hinge does not move while driving. This system works so well, that I find I have to loosen the tension on the hinge during car shows as if someone bumps into the Wind Wing, or if pranksters purposely turn my mirrors and the Wind Wings, they will move freely, and not crack the Plexiglass. I hope that I have answered your questions. Thanks for asking.
Regards
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayThanks guys your comments are very flattering and encouraging to make my next set better. I can not believe that I did not think of doing this before. I gave the fabricated brackets the 65 + test today on the interstate, and they held up with no problems what so ever. My next set will have just a little taller side walls to increase the strength of the windshield side bracket mount.
“Neccesity is the mother of invention”
Regards………. Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayGreetings y all, I have been away from the site for a while due to some health reasons, but now I am back and I have been working on HERBIE again, my 1985 TDr Classic Roadster Duchess. I just re engineered the Wind Wing mounting brackets, as I could not find any. Classic Roadsters had a very unique one off way of mounting their Wind Wings. I will be more then glad to help any other Duchess owner fabercated their own out of Aluminum channel stock, easily and cost effective from Home Depot. Also please take a look at my profile page” Davearoy “as you can see Herbie’s return from the grave restoration and his new top that I sewed together last year. In closing I must AGAIN send high compliments to Paul and Stephen, on how well our site has turn out. I spent 3 hours just bumming around here last night, and there is sooooooo much to see and learn, and I have been a member since 2012 I think.
Best Regards
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every daySounds great Sam! These older VW cars are fun and easy to work on, but they can be a challenge. I find that a lot of good common sense, patience and of course a cold beer, are very import when sorting out problems when thing do not work. Our web site I have learned has some very talented guys here, and someone has had the same problem or has an idea on how to fix a certain problem someone is challenged with. Be safe, have fun, but most important, enjoy your car.
Best Regards
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayhttps://tdreplica.com/members/davearoy/media/464/
Sorry Paul, I am trying to post a picture of my manufactured Wind Wing for my Classic Roadster Duchess. I am using my IPad and posting pics already uploaded to my TDr sites profile page. Can you maybe make my pics live? Thanks I appreciate you brother!
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayIf the car had been sitting for a while the mean gremlins of crosion could be your enemy. I do not know where your battery is located in relation to the starter, but you may have a bad connection from the battery terminal to the battery cable, the battery cable itself could be full of crosion, which would increase the resistance of power to the starter. The terminal at the starter lug nut may be corroded, or maybe even loose. You may also have a bad ground wire connection, as Paul (I believe has mentioned). Also double check the battery terminals on both ends of the ground cable to be sure they are clean, tight, and not corroded. If you have lights, but not enough power to have the starter solenoid engage the flywheel, the solenoid should click. The lights also should dim if there is not enough power in the battery to turn over the engine. Also, is there the proper level of distiled water in the battery to ensure the proper amperage charge? Good cable contacts, fuses good, no corrosion, full charge battery, good starter, good switches, engine should at least turn over.
Good Luck, Safet Fast
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayLast update to changing out my starter Motor. As you may recall, I posted a concern of how to remove the starter bushing when installing a near starter. Well I am happy to report the advice from the Samba Forum on using a “Auto Stick Starter” was advice well given. I installed this new starter and I did not remove the old starter bushing, because the auto stick starter has a second self supporting bushing in the starter. The change out was easy to do, and I also hooked up my “hard to start when hot Ford solenoid switch”. The new auto stick starter works GREAT! So when you have to replace your VW engines starter, this is the way to go and not mess with replacing the old starter bushing in the transmission bell housing. The only caution here is…….. if the former owner or engine rebuilder changed out the fly wheel with a different then standard gear tooth pattern, a new standard VW starter will not work because the gear tooth pattern will be different. The difference is the number of gear teeth on the replaced fly wheel. Thanks again to Allen on suggesting I look at the Samba Forms. Rob’s and Dave web site was no help.
Best Regards to all, I love the information exchange and knowledgeable resources on our TDr web site. Special thanks again to Paul and Steve on making the new site easy to use.
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayUpdate on my question of how to remove the starter bushing from the transmission bell housing. Rob and Dave’s web site really gave no direct answer, other then remove the bushing before you install a new starter. There were several suggestions on the Samba web site, suggesting to use a 7 mm easy out, and clamping onto the easy out with vice grips and hammering on the vice grips to remove the bushing. Several Samba members said they tried that, with marginal success. The next Samba suggestion was to back off the engine from the transmission, and tapping out the bushing, and place a shop rag in the bell housing to avoid the bushing falling into the clutch area. Another was to drop the engine and tap out the bushing. Finally after reviewing similar Samba forms, the very BEST suggestion that many Samber members did with great success, was to NOT remove the original starter bushing, but to use a “Auto Stick” starter. The starter for the auto stick transmission, has a self supporting in starter bushing. Therefore avoiding the need to use the old manual starter bushing. Soooooooo I purchased a auto stick starter for $42 with a life time warranty from Oriley’s Auto Parts. I hope my Sarter Motor replacement and research will be helpful to our site members in the future. Thanks to TDr member Allen for his comments. I will report back after I install the Auto Stick Starter.
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayThanks Paul and Ed for your feed back. I have the original fuel guage installed in my reconditioned dash, but the original fuel sender in the original optional Dutchess tank that I have has no part number markings on it. There maybe a part number stamped on the dash guage, but I have been avoiding trying to taking it out due to some vertigo problems that I have been experiencing. I will call the Classic Instruments Company, and pick their brain as well. Again thanks guys for being a reference. I know the sending unit is the problem, as I am not getting any readings on my amp meter.
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayWOW Paul thanks for sharing. FYI, I came across my Classic Instruments Installuation Booklet the other day, as I need to replace my glass tank sending unit. The sending unit is not marker with any kind of a number so I do not know how may ohms it is. Might you know? My Dutchess was built in 1985 the only othe way is to pull the Gas Guage out of the dash and see if I can find a part number on it and try to match up the correct sending unit….. thanks
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayOk John, I am really going to confuse you now. I live in Tampa, Fl, and the temps here in the summer average about 93 degrees, maybe hotter. (So says the local weather channel). When I restored Herbie 1 year ago, I had my 1968 VW engine rebuilt by “Fisher Buggies”. They only work on VW’s, and specifically build Racing VW engines, and build Dune Bugies Frames with regular VW engines, for the none racer. When they rebuilt my engine, they used Castor GTX 20-50 oil. That is what they recommend I use, and to change the oil every 3000 miles. I usually change it every 2500 miles, and clean the strainer as well. During the engine rebuild, added an extra deep sump, and a newer style Engine Cooling Dog House, and a newer larger style oil cooler. I also run stright exhaust pipes, with abestos exhaust wrap. I now put in about 3 1/2 qts of oil, upon every oil change. I used a LED Heat Sensor hand held temperature reader, and aimed it on the crank case, just behind the crank belt pulley, and I got a reading of 285 degrees. This was after about a 40 minute drive, in 80 degree (mid Spring) weather. I was quite surprised that the temp was that low. The VW shop here says, engines start to over heat at 320 degrees. I have researched several “Oil Articles” on the VW Samba Web Site, and the over all opinion is not to use Synethic Oil. Many of the guys in warmer climates also said they used Castor GTX 20-50. So this is my 2 cents opinion that I got from VW only mechanics, and long term VW users on Samba.
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayHey Stephen, THANKS AGAIN for setting up our new TDr Web Site. I am now able to up load pics to my profile avatar and my profile page from my iPad. I never had an issue with my login, and now still have no issues what so ever!! You are a genius at this “web stuff”. Yours and Paul’s efforts and contributions will go down in the history annuals of our web site. Job well done guys!! Question though, how can I up load a pic from my Flicr account to our sites new gallery?
Again thanks!
Dave
Lakeland, Florida
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayYou may also try your local Craig’s List. I have seen several of these TDr cars for sale in the Tampa Bay Area. Prices any where from $4800 to $6800, for a quick sale. You are probably are a little low at $4800, ask your $5500, and negotiate down to a win, win price. Have you put it up for sale on Samba as well? If it driveable, I have always put a for sale sign on the car and drove mine, just to advertise it and enjoy it a little. You should also show it in any local car shows, or park it in a high traffic local parking lot, mall, grocery store, etc. Are there any local car clubs in your area that they might help you advertise your car? Good luck with it, sounds like a very nice car.
Dave
Lakeland, FlDave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayYour efforts are appreciated!! I have not had any problems, even though I use an iPad. Both your’s and Paul’s efforts and skills are awesome.
Dave
Lakeland, FlDave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayI hear your frustration about fitting engine tins. When I restored Herbie, a year ago, I had to make several mods to the new tins I used. I even went a couple of steps further, to help to try to avoid extra ABOVE tins heat, especially here in Central Florida. I wrapped my non heater box exhaust tubes with high temp exhaust rap, and I made a hand crafted custom muffler tin, about one inch above the muffler, to help avoid my Fiberglass Rear Slpash Pan from blistering. What ever one can do to avoid lower engine heat from getting into the above tin area around their engine, will be well worth the effort. I also have changed my motor oil from 20/50 to 10/40, as I read an oil article that 10/40 oil weight, removes heat from friction engine points better then the heavier oil viscosity. I think there is a thread about the oil viscosity and which oil brand and weight is best for Air Cooled Engines, in a previous post. Again cooler shroud fan air intake, even just a few degrees will make your engine last longer. I think with all of my mods of, the new style larger air shroud and fan, an offset in shroud engine oil cooler, a larger EMPI Oil Sump, and change of oil viscosity, my engine oil temp is about 275-285 degrees. When the outside air temp reaches in the 90s in the Florida summer, you do what ya gotta do.
Dave
Lakeland, FlDave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayDon’t forget to change out the Transmission fluid as well. I added a “Ford Starter Old Style Relay” to help start a hot VW engine. It also helps to improve starting, due to some possible deterioration/corrosion of older starting circuit wiring. Be sure to take lots of before and after restoration pictures, as we like to have you share with us your creative, and talented ideas, of how we can make our cars better. Wonderful story, and congratulations on obtaining a part of your grandfather’s legacy.
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayThanks a whole lot guys for your tireless efforts. I can only imagine all of the long hours, and time consuming double checks on the forum history transfer. I know sometimes “words are just a part of a conversation” but my words of honest, sincere appreciation are my recognition, of y alls work!
It’s guys like you, that make our TDr web site, what it really is, a wealth of information sharing, and problem solving. So again “Gold Medals” for you both!!
Dave
Lakeland,FlDave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayI am trying to post a picture of Herbie at a recent Air and Auto Fest Show again. I am using an iPad, so I have problems up loading pics to our TDr site
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davearoy/26997480296/in/dateposted-public/
I hope this works, thanks for y alls patience.
Dave
😉 davearoy2016-05-16 12:44:12Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayOk so I try up loading again
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davearoy/26997480296/in/dateposted-public/
PMOSSBERG2016-05-17 14:17:42Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayThanks Paul for your help. Actually I do not know how you have had the time to make this recent post, concerning iPad pictures. You certainly have had a very busy graduation celebration weekend, for sure. I know you are very proud of your daughter, I know I was when mine graduated.
On the square……..
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayVery nice post of the car show y all attended. I tried to post a picture of Herbie at a recent Auto and Air Fest Show, but I have difficulity posting pics from my iPad. Maybe Paul M can tell me what I am doing wrong.
Y all be safe and have a fun summer
Dave
Lakeland, flDave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayGood rational advice Royal, it sounds like you speak from well learned experiences. I also think prayer helps as well.
Davedavearoy2016-05-15 12:32:31
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayJEGS.com has several guages at excellent pricing. They also have the appropriate sending units as well. This is mainly a Muscle Car web site, but has guages as well, less expensive then other VW online web sites.
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayWelcome Ryan! From the above comments you are at the right place at the right time. Congratulations on “re finding” your Uncle’s car. This group has a vast resource of very knowledgable folks. We also enjoy seeing pictures of our members cars, and their projects on them.
Regards……….. Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every day