Ah now we’re having fun!

I had very good going with the Minwax Helmsman polyurethane over a product called Pelucid, which was spendy, but very strong and hard. The dash looks about as good today as when it was first done—and that’s saying quite a bit, especially if you look at how the rest of the car has weathered…

I let this long-term wood f…[Read more]

I really should have a look at the manual. For some reason, I get off on these little details, and making it to sell gives me another excuse (as if I needed one) to work them out.

Bill and Roy are right, though, it’s the big stuff that really matters: get the engine right, the trans square and tight, all the suspension bits. Bridget is gonna need…[Read more]

Very cool. I got a ride in “Memphis Belle” (the movie version, also a B-17 G, I believe) a few years ago and it was a definite career highlight. I’d love to be able to work on one!

As always, you do neat work, Jack. I wish you were closer so I could somehow rope you into wiring my Spyder.

Update on the Spyder build.

Basically cracking away at things as time permits. We’re getting into paint and final finish now.

Can’t believe I missed this post.

Yeah, man, the shower curtain tonneau is the bomb: super light and keeps out prying eyes and hot sun, at least, if not so much heavy rain!

Yeah sorry I haven’t been updating the blog. Work continues. I’ll post something this weekend. Thanks for your interest!

Def cool. I thought of doing this a few years ago but haven’t yet had an occasion. I’d think you could index them with a sharpie before you loosen the big nut, then just realign the marks when done. A mirror would help a lot.

I am convinced that car broke and then crashed, not the other way around. I bet it’s that same rear track bar/locating arm that has let loose before.

Wow, Bob, that’s some heavy stuff. Sorry to bring it all out of you like this but thanks for sharing it. You’re among friends.

Sorry for your loss, Ric. I didn’t know the folks personally but met Rob once or twice at an awards thing and knew John by reputation as well. These folks were the heart and soul of the craft, and I’m still sorting through my own emotions.

That this came about in part because a reporter or columnist wrote about a court case—a very small h…[Read more]

Plausible but I don’t understand why you’d relocate the steering rack. It should be in a pretty positive “stock” location, and if you raise it up won’t it tend to keep your tie-rod angles in the cockeyed condition they’re in?

Ric, congratulations! Now it’s just down to sorting.

I don’t know about the photo problem maybe someone else will chime in.

The sure way to find it is to start at the driver’s side from wheel and trace the brake line until you get to the thing with all the other brake lines coming out of it. There will be two bolts fastening it to a bulkhead. In a VW pan that would be the “Napolean’s Hat” cross member just behind the front wheels. I think your chassis is custom but…[Read more]

Good on ya Ric.

And a good question. I think the oil light has its own sending unit which is pretty much universal, and gauges have their own which have to match the gauge. But someone else might have the for-sure answer.

Good luck. Fingers crossed.

230 in, 190 out…at idle on an 80-degree day?

dang. I don’t think you’re there yet.

Ric, re oil hoses: you can use regular clamps but most people go with more expensive and better stuff—AN 8 or AN 10 fittings, say. Oil pressure above 80 lbs on startup, and a heat cycle on the hoses that’s worse than your coolant system, means you should get short lengths of heavy-duty neoprene hoses designed for use with hot oil, and preferably b…[Read more]

Good to see your progress, Ric. Wiring. I wish I liked it more.