IMO, you do NOT want to seal off the firewall on a TDr unless you have an engine lid with the steel real spare tire mount that leaves a large opening into the engine compartment underneath the spare. (Some spare tire mounts are fiberglass and will not let enough cooling air in, IMO, even if you cut holes in them.) Let the engine fan suck air in…[Read more]

That’s a nice example! Front bumper will cost about $150, but the top will likely cost $800 or more…IMO, $5500 is much more in line, assuming it runs and drives fine…

Guys, I wouldn’t sweat the whole retarded #3 timing, either way. The amount that it was retarded was very slight – I seem to recall 3 degrees, but that may not be correct.This was first done on the stationary engines that would sit and rn for hours at 3000 RPM plus. Then, they implemented it on the vehicles because of the problems with #3 cylinder…[Read more]

The retarding of the timing on the #3 cylinder on the 009 is done my slightly offsetting the location of the sparkplug wire on the distributor cap.The 009 was originally designed for stationary engines used to power air compressors, generators and such, unless I’m mistaken. The 010 was designed for use in the much heavier VW busses, and is…[Read more]

I’d check for vacuum leaks everywhere – manifold end castings where they bolt onto the head. The rubber/neoprene connectors where the manifold center section connects to those end castings on each side. The gasket where the carb bolts to the manifold. And where those vacuum lines are plugged. A vacuum leak will cause the pining/rattling you…[Read more]

Then, put a heavy suitcase on it and pull wheelies! 😉

Nope! Maybe just more “hard knocks” with VWs that I’ve paid for on VWs over the years… 😉

Personally, I’d try sealing the engine compartment before I’d start cutting additional vent holes in the fiberglass. Unfortunately, most TDr kits seem to make no effort to do so…The engine compartment on stock VWs was totally sealed around the engine to force the cooling fan and the carb to suck in air from above the engine rather than up from…[Read more]

Run-on or dieseling is normally reduced when timing advance is slightly reduced, so it’s hard to picture why 28 degrees total advance would be worse than 30. It’s also typically a factor of lean mixtures, as described. The stock 34 PICT Solex for dual port engines had an anti-dieseling solenoid that completely shut off fuel flow when the ignition…[Read more]

According to specs in the original brochure that I have the FiberFab MiGi replica has a wheelbase of 94″, rear width of 58″ and front width of 59″. Those width measurements are likely for the body and not the tire track, since they are simply labeled width.

Close enough, Paul… Thanks!185/65s have essentially the same sidewall height as the stock VW’s 165/80s, with a tread and ground ontact more than an inch wider…

They use the stock, full-length bug frame. V-8 s have been shoehorned in, but often by removing the side panels from the hood. That hood is narrow and a 289 Ford would more readily fit than a 327 Chevy..

Here’s how 185-65/15s look on my project…Edit: I’ve tried every thing I can think of to show or link that picture from my gallery, to no avail. Sorry!Kent – I was trying to fix the link and might have picked the wrong picture. Is this one correct?

PMOSSBERG2015-05-02 08:39:53

Ho do you like the 185/65s?

You may want to to try something like this:http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_gps?ie=UTF8&field-brandtextbin=Glarestomper&node=172526

Wonder what they’d want to mill them from aluminum stock? Stainless steel is expensive, and since they’re only ornamental….

I see a VW dual port engine with aftermarket 36 HP style fan…[Read more]

Couple thoughts:1. Since you’ve converted to disc brakes up front, be sure the offset on wider front wheels will clear the brake calipers. I’d suggest no wider than 5.5″ up front.2. With the power you have, going to a slightly taller tire such as 185 or 195 by 70 series in back isn’t a real issue. I have 185×65 front and rear so I can rotate them…

Yes, IMO you need a ground strap from the tranny to the frame, just to be safe. The transmission mounts are rubber/neopreme, and even the shifter has rubber in the pivot/coupler. The engine might find a ground somewhere, but better safe than sorry, given the amperage being sent to the starter…KentT2015-04-26 18:26:42

Allen, I want a pair if you’re taking orders!