My seat bases are fiberglass boxes that have a speaker mounted in the front, facing forward, underneath the seats. Where do you have the entry of the heat ducts into this space, from behind through the rear wall? If I blew the hot air into there it would heat the seat up nice, then I need another opening into the passenger compartment, or I…[Read more]

It’s probably heat and moisture resistant but being that thin, I don’t know how much sound deadening it will give. But for $34 and being easy to apply, maybe 2 layers to cover the rear area in front of the engine might work, doubling the sound isolation between the metal and foam layers.

How thick is that tape and how much soundproofing do you expect?If it works that would be relatively easy to apply to the inside of the rear deck and engine compartment to try and eliminate some noise with the top up.

That’s a good thing for the rest of us who already have one. Now ours are worth more, right?

I have the original VW exhaust and it’s not the exhaust tone that’s loud, it’s the engine noise itself.There is a sound deadener foam made with a foil face so the bare foam is not exposed, and thereby can’t dry and flake off. All of these foams are pretty well insulated from the heat also, as they are used in engine compartments, as in boats for…[Read more]

And thanks for people like you too and the work you do.Amazing what you can accomplish without bureaucracy in the way helping you. Nice going, and don’t forget pics of ol’ midnight. Welcome back.

No warranty or quality control on that? They shouldn’t sell something like that, but you didn’t buy it from them so I guess you got stuck.

I tried it the way suggested, just unsnap the side panel from the windshield and the one on the body in front of the door and unzip the horizontal part of the main zipper, and I can easily open the door with the panel attached, and, I can easily get the front snap and 2 lower windshield snaps in place without any difficulty once inside the car, by…[Read more]

We motorcycle riders (another sickness) for the most part always wave and get a return wave. I’d wave like crazy if I ever spotted another TD on the road (provided I had the top down or side curtains off).I did meet one other local owner when stopped on the side of the road one day. He has a yellow kit in his garage for the past few years,…[Read more]

You have to be careful with that tool, that you don’t scratch up the fiberglass using it. I found mine that I had for my boat in the third place I looked – lucky me – (and I never thought it would be in here but I was curious anyway), so I’m going to see if I can use it. Basically it can prevent you from ripping the snap out of whatever it’s…[Read more]

So you unsnap the front of the side curtains from the window frame and not the snaps attached to the door, opening the side curtain with the door after you unzip it?I don’t think I could never reach the window frame through the zipper under the side window to reattach the 3 snaps up there but I’ll try that tomorrow.I have one of those snap tools…[Read more]

If you really want to increase visibility and be noticed, get a brakelight modulator which very easily plugs into the wiring. It flashes the light 4 or 6 times over 3-4 seconds when you hit the brake pedal, then stays on as a continuous light if you keep your foot on the pedal. It is available online from many manufacturers, usually put on the…[Read more]

If your battery connections are tight then you may have a cracked connection inside the battery from banging on it to set the connector. If you jiggle it, you may be getting it to make contact inside the battery again. If that’s the case, you need a new battery unless you want to do that every time and one day it will totally fail and you will be…[Read more]

You can also go with a Stebel air horn or one of the knockoffs from Harbor Freight or Advance Auto Parts or any similar store. I have them on my motorcycles and they are LOUD, 139db, and a very valuable safety item, especially in these little plastic cars. They can be mounted under the hood by the front grill, or outside if you want. The whole…[Read more]

Then what would make the shock sit in it’s mounts at the bottom of it’s travel, instead of in the middle where it’s supposed to be? Where it is now seems to be compressed. Wouldn’t a good or a better shock, the same GR-2’s, be longer in the car with more distance between the the mounts and have a few inches of travel up and down? The limit of my…[Read more]

Paul, I understood everything you said before, but not that. If the shocks have no or little compressive force, (ie, compressed, at the bottom of their travel), the car will sit low. If they are good, and sit in the middle of their travel, the car should sit higher. Are you trying to say the shocks support absolutely none of the car’s weight?I…[Read more]

One last question from me on here regarding ride height. I just went out to look at my shocks again, GR-2’s, and there is hardly any travel in the shocks if I jump on or bounce the front of the car, bumper or fender, like they are just about bottomed out. So If they are at the limit of their travel at being compressed, wouldn’t that have anything…[Read more]

Thanks (again).

I have a stock, nonadjustable beam. I seriously doubt if any leaves have been removed or are broken as my car sits 9″ off the ground.I may remove the shocks and see what the measurement is between upper and lower mounts, it may be the same or less without some of the shock force holding it up. If it is still 15 or 16″ at rest with no shock, then…[Read more]

I don’t think any leaves were taken out of mine. I’m just wondering if my shocks are too short or they have bottomed out although they don’t seen so by looking at them. I cannot find anywhere on the web what length they are supposed to be, I only know they are 15″ long as they sit in my car right now, and Paul says that distance should be 21″.