Welcome PC.
One thing to consider when choosing a drivetrain is the availability of parts, both OEM and aftermarket.
Unfortunately, the Chevy Chevette/Pontiac T-1000 has absolutely no aftermarket for “performance” stuff. There are still “maintenance” parts available…filters, hoses, tune-up parts, gaskets, etc. But that’s it. The leading…[Read more]

Welcome.
Use a Bosch #AL82N alternator. You will have to change to an “alternator style” fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod (short). A generator style will not clear the alternator.
You will also have to change to an alternator stand. The generator stand will also not clear the alternator. An alternator stand works for both though.
The alternator i…[Read more]

At one of the SVRA events I attened at Watkins Glen, there was a guy with one of these in a “track only” Triumph TR-3. It had 4 Webers on it. He never had it running as good as it should though.
Les Gonda’s MG8 eats small block powered Cobra’s for breakfast.
You sound ready for the I-95 commute!

You can get a VW towbar really cheap. They will allow you to flat tow the car. You almost don’t know the car is behind you. You just can’t back-up with the car hooked up.
These cars are VERY light and you really don’t need a trans cooler as long as you don’t use OverDrive (read your owner’s manual to verify).
VW didn’t sell air cooled Beetles in t…[Read more]

Ed, it’s a 215 c.i.d. aluminum Buick V8. He wrote in anther thread about the car.
Funny, those engines were a flop when intoduced in the 1960 Buick and almost the same motor in the Olds F-85. The heads were slightly different and one-way interchangeable between the motors.
In the late 60’s, GM sold the tooling to Rover, who used them in the MG8,…[Read more]

Welcome
There are plenty of people that might be interested in that aluminum 215…and that ’53 Stude poking its’s nose out in the picture.
Have you considered a Toyota 2.0L (C20?) It’s an OHC with a lot more appeal (and lighter) than that Ford Lima 2.3L. Out west, those Toyota drivetrains are probably plentiful too. They came in old Celica,…[Read more]

Don,
What I am saying is when you disconnect the two wires on the back of the amp gauge, just connect them together with a butt connector. That will keep that circuit complete no matter where it starts or ends.
Your amp gauge is actually just “spliced” into that line. It measures current flowing along in that circuit. The current just flows…[Read more]

If I was doing this, I’d just connect (join) the wires that were connected to the back of the amp meter. That would, in effect, complete that circuit. Plus, you’d not be stringing new wire all over the place.
Then hook your voltmeter to an “key on” voltage source. Nothing that was hooked to the amp meter would connect to the voltmeter.
Mark H.

I think the tank you’d need is 1960-67 Beetle/Ghia…but I’m not sure. These tanks have an integral filler neck/gas cap. You have to open the hood to fuel up.
The ’68 up tanks use a body mounted filler door and neck.
http://www.quantaproducts.com/departments/411/GAS-TANKS/Beet le.aspx

Old gasoline is just that…old gasoline. All the fuel additives in the world won’t bring it back to life. You should have drained it, flushed the tank and started with fresh fuel. If the carb/pump/filter were replaced, they all just got contaminated with the bad gas because the tank was not drained and flushed.
Also, it may just be a stuck…[Read more]

Ponce, just post the classified the same way you post here.

Aftermarket dipstick or the dipstick tube is too long?
A stock Beetle hold 85 oz. If it’s overfilled, it’ll just push it out the crankcase behind the crank pulley or up and out the breather tube on the generator/alternator stand.
Either way it’s just a fact of life for VW’s unless you install a good crankcase breather set up. A lot of people…[Read more]

Just be sure that the synthetic you choose has a zinc package (ZDDP). Nothing in Wal-Mart, NAPA, Auto Zone, etc. does.
A local performance shop I’ve been using for years sells several different synthetics with the ZDDP…Joe Gibbs Racing (hot rod), Amsoil Premium Protection, RedLine, etc.
Oils with ZDDP usually have an “off road only” designation…[Read more]

Anything with a carburetor suffers from the E10, which in most cases is E-15 or even more! The ethanol eats up the neoprene needle seats, accelerator pumps, fuel pump diaphragms. In some cases, it also requires the carbs to be re-jetted, slightly richer.
Today’s cars are computer controlled, use Viton as seal material and the ethanol will run OK…[Read more]

Royal Purple is by far the BEST of the synthetics. In addition, there is no comparision between a good synthetic and the best organic oil.
They lubricate better, transfer heat better, do not change viscosity in a WIDE temperature range. I use synthetics in EVERY system of EVERY vehicle I own.
The VW engine is air-cooled (larger tolerances cold due…[Read more]

Ed, very odd that the valve lash would get tighter. Maybe they were way too tight from the last adjustment?
Do you have a good dwell meter? That is the best way to check the points after they are manually gapped. The dwell (points gap) will affect the timing too.
If found a great synthetic to use in my Beetle motors. I use Royal Purple in all my…[Read more]

The “Wounded TD Replica Forum”???

Looking Good Mel…It’s warm here in NJ and we saw the sun for a change.

Correct…you can’t miss that center guide with the leaves that are replaced…just MUST have the 4 wider ones. The six narrow ones can be removed/added as required.
Ferdinand was pretty smart on this design. Change the front spring rate depending on the vehicle requirements.
Are you sure that when you are trying to move the upper adjuster th…[Read more]

Ed, these adjusters should be in sync or “parallel” to each other. If the top one won’t move then something is wrong up with the top tube/leaves.
Here’s how I did mine after removing the small torsion leaves:
Jacked car up and put the lower tube on jack stands.
Got a piece of angle iron I had laying around, place the center of it on the jack…[Read more]