By the way, I’m also an “anchor klancker” Bubble Head Submarine Sailor (1968-1977 USS George C Marshall SSBN 654 Gold Crew).  Anchors Aweigh to y’all —

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Hey Ed,

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I took Ed’s idea and ran with it, with my own twist (naturally — none of us will ever do anything exactly like some other club member – or any one else for that matter…..!!!)

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I used a 73 beetle speedo and Classic Instruments 5″ tach. I see what you mean about period correct and so, if I were doing it again with a bigger budget I would consider the new Speedster replica gauges coming availabe from, I think, Beck.Two only, please: speedo and tach.Do the rest with matching VDOs @ 2″. It will look both “period-correct” and…[Read more]

Since you asked for opinions:Too busy! Delete the big clock and if you must have a clock, get a smaller one and mount it in with the small instruments – three on top, two below. Can you fit a passenger grab bar in? Passengers will surely like it.

IMHO, far and away, the easiest (no fiberglass work and no paint) way is to use brackets like came on the Daytona TDr and a few others. If you and the others who are interested, you could get together and have some made (cast). From there, you would just bolt the new piece on, cut the extended old legs off your old windshield frame, and you’re…[Read more]

There’s a couple stanchions that bolt into the top of the cowl and then a pinch thing to hold the swivel thing which is tightened with wing nuts. 

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Ed, it has been many moons since I had a Brooklands racing screen. As I recall, they mount on two posts that are mounted atop the hump in front of the driver. I believe they are designed for the screen to be easily removed by loosening two signings. Is that right?Do you remove yours when your windshield is up?

Looks very cool and hope it’s a success. Wish I could be there.

Both entered. They used this venue a couple years ago. Long, fast course. The fellow with the orange and black GTI that ran at Carlisle is setting up this event.

You running? Is Dave?

Correction/update: Mine just lights with brakes, not parking lights.

Yep! Good on ya Dave. Shift busing and coupler were two of the first things I did on mine. Terrible PITA but well worth the effort.

I used this one. You really do get what you pay for.

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Valve noise is quieting down. Opened the bleeders and got air, then liquid. Did that a couple times and left the car running (after putting a little more water in). Eventually the temp gauge started climbing.

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Filled her up and then got my heater core valve working so I filled a little more. I had the nose elevated a foot or so as well. Got liquid at all the bleeders.

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I used Squire Design. Mike and his wife, I am guessing. I got two 12-inch rounds and a little one in the back, 7-inches. My setup cost under $50 shipped and has held on pretty well. The first 7-inch rear number went bye-bye the first day. I had stuck it too high on the fender, I guess. Since then no problem, though there is a little bubble in it I…[Read more]

My Daytona has a VW tank mounted lengthwise in the trunk and sits in a fiberglass well. Mine has a lot of wasted space which I have seen better used in other mfg’s TDr’s.

Kent, I don’t know what it is, – but I’ve never seen a Daytona with a full sized grill. I sure do miss the old photo gallery.

I’m sticking with a very early Fiberfab. I read somewhere, that the first Fiberfabs were bought from Daytona. The gas tank orientation is Daytona. The humps on the running boards are Daytona. Hood opens from the drivers side a’la Daytona. The top looks early Fiberfab or Daytona (I realize some others also put in rear quarter windows). Bench…[Read more]