I’m guessing those badges are gone if not how much anyone with pic of one?

In case anyone wants them I just took off the metal wire wheel 2 pc 15” wheel covers

have set of 5 various conditions but all usable and able to be rechromed I believe

can’t get pics to work here so pm me and I can text ya pics

<p style=”text-align: left;”>I do have a 275-218 relay as well thinking that’s signal related but not sure??</p>
Therea a green wire that goes to it not hooked up so not sure if PO was tryin to get signals working and gave up or what 🤷🏻‍♂️

I have a set of the two piece metal wire wheel covers original various levels of good condition.  I was going to have em rechrome but can’t find a shop located in 85361 Arizona 100$ plus ship

I have an extra shell from a FF mgtd not sure if u can make it work??

Well I took it off pulled cover and sanded the contacts to clean them up.  Not sure if they’re bad or what.  One of the long reeds is bent like it was overheated and linked or bent it a little.  Tried to make all of them straight and clean

sure is a huge pita to install this thing to see if it works 😂

Pics on phone can’t get to attach

That’s pretty funny. The Classic  Roadsters Ltd. assembly manual recommended filling the box with sand. You end up with about 150 pounds. I cannot guess what that weighed with railroad tie plates!

My blinkers don’t work about every other year. It’s my reminder to go clean and re-do the ground connections.

To be honest I didn’t open figured I’d o my make it worse lol.

car been sitting a long time ill

clean the contacts and see if it starts working

Have you removed the cover and checked the solenoids? Make sure they’re clean. With the cover off you should see if the solenoids are working or not.

Tons of info if you google “Lucas 33117” including replacing with newer style relays.

Thanks for the offer Bill. I’m going to try Erics suggestion first and see how that goes.

Private message sent

I have a pair of doors I’d let go if ya needed them whatever’s fair for price plus shipping from 85361 in Arizona

You should be able to line everything up by loosening the steering box mounting bolts and clocking it slightly. As I recall, there is a “stop” of some sort on the beam or mounting frame that should have (probably had to be!) been cut off during the kit’s assembly, allowing the steering box to spin more fully on the top tube. That’s what makes it…[Read more]

A word on “clips” being on your clutch cable:

Nearly all these cars all use a shortened clutch cable, owing to the pedal set having been moved rearward a foot or 14 inches. On my car, the PO made a loop in the cable over the transaxle and then clamped that with a U-shaped cable clamp. It worked perfectly well like that for probably 25…[Read more]

Here’s a link to a thread on TheSamba with lots of good info. The one thing people forget to mention is the clutch mechanism has slack in it, but the clutch cable arm is pre-loaded with a spring. Take up the slack when measuring by using pliers to turn the clutch cable arm CCW until you encounter stiff resistance.

Local shops for what? Parts I hope.

Clutch pp and bearing kit ain’t bad thru Sachs

Cable is easy as long as no one bogered up the tube   Easy peazy

You should have about 1/2″ of light pedal travel before you feel heavier resistance as the throwout bearing engages

This is my next step – sorting out how tight to make the clutch cable.  I already know it should be replaced down the line – it has a  repair with a couple of wire clips.

Anyway…looking to see it I can tighten the clutch cable muc…[Read more]