[Bill Clemons]

Thanks 🙂 I’m in a similar situation . Found a guy who bought an unbuilt Ford kit years ago and has decided to part it out . I’m rebuilding a VW car and need all the soft goods but wasn’t sure if his stuff would fit. We are on opposite sides of the country so I can’t test fit any of it. Great info, thanks again 🙂

[Bill Clemons]

I have a moto meter from a td kit car i won’t be using.

[Bill Clemons]

it’s from a late 1980 MGB . I’m also using a MGB steering column but using the TD turn signal switch on the dash. I modified a MGA horn button for it because it originally had a big rubber horn push that imho looked too new.

[Bill Clemons]

 

[Bill Clemons]

Latest update on my effort to put a real TD dash in a Fiberfab Migi . I started with the FF wood bass boat dash and tried putting a TD center pod and some Opel instruments and while it was an improvement I really didn’t care for it. But was a good springboard for DASH V2 . I ordered a plywood dash blank from Moss Motors and dang if it wasn’t almost a perfect fit. The “V” in the middle of the FF dash is a little sharper (lower by about 3/4″) but the humps and total width were spot on with the money. TD tach/speedo holes are smaller but my Opel units use 5 1/4″ holes so no prob. The TD steering cut out needs moving a couple inches to the left but no biggy. I will be covering the dash in green leather so I can cover any carpentry. Still a long ways to go but this I like

• This reply was modified 1 year, 9 months ago by Bill Clemons.

[Bill Clemons]

I’ve been able to determine the real dash is 41 1/8″ wide at the bottom which is the same as the replica dash. The only question now is the profile of the “humps” matching. I already have a center piece so I think I’ll roll a $110 dice with a Moss Motors plywood dash and see how it goes 🙂

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